Sighnaghi: City of Love (Georgia)

Posted on 1 December, 2014 by Benjie Layug — 2 Comments ↓

After our short stopover at the venerated Bodbe Monastery, we continued on our GNTA-sponsored tour, proceeding on a short 2-km. drive to the town center of Sighnaghi. We arrived at the town by 11:30 AM and alighted at a park with a monument to Georgian philosopher, journalist, historian and native son Solomon Dodashvili (May 17, 1805 – August 20, 1836).

Postcard-pretty Sighnaghi (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

Other famous sons of the town include composer Vano Sarajishvili, political figure Sandro Mirianashvili and world-renowned primitivist painter Niko Pirosmani. We were to have lunch at Pheasant’s Tears but, as we still had some time to spare, our Georgian guide Sopho Makashvili took us on a walking tour around the town.

Monument to native son Solomon Dogashvili (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

Sighnaghi, located in Georgia’s easternmost region of Kakheti, is the administrative center of the Sighnaghi district and one of the country’s smallest (2.978 km²) towns (2002 population: 2,146). One of Georgia’s leading trading centers in the 19^th century, Sighnaghi’s economy is dominated by the production of wine, leather, gobelin tapestry, woodcarving, metal craft, ceramics, traditional carpets and traditional food.

Uniquely designed terrace architecture of the town

The town and its environs, also known for their landscapes and historical monuments, has recently undergone a fundamental reconstruction and has become an important part of the Georgian tourism industry (it is now known as the “City of Love”). The town is also the jump-off point for exploring the lush vineyards of Kakheti, the cradle of wine (Georgia boasts of 500 varieties of grapes, more than anywhere else in the world).

The author exploring part of Sighnaghi's defensive wall and towers

Exploring part of Sighnaghi’s defensive wall and towers (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

The town was developed in the early 18^th century by the king Erekle II (Heraclius II) as a refuge for the population against Lezgin and Persian attack, hence the name sighnaghi which comes from the Azeri word signak meaning “shelter.” In 1762, he sponsored the construction of the town and erected a fortress to defend the area from marauding attacks by Dagestan tribesmen. The 4.5 m. high, 1.5 m. wide and 4.5 km. long city wall, one of the biggest in Georgia, has 23 towers, each named after local villages the town is surrounded by, and 6 entrances.

Our guide Sopho Makashvili, Riva Galvezltan, the author and Consul Buddy Cunanan (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

Sopho showed us, from afar, the section of the city’s defensive wall that has been restored for tourism and we climbed one of the towers for a panoramic view of the town. Walking along the town’s narrow cobblestone streets, I was also enthralled by the uniquely designed terrace architecture of the 2 to 3-storey tiled-roof houses of Sighnaghi, the majority of which still date back from 17^th, 18^th and 19^th century. Built with fine Georgian brick, they were built to accommodate a variety of stores and workshops, above which are wooden, lacy balconies and bow-backed windows. The town also has a beautiful fountain.

A beautiful fountain

Consul Buddy Cunanan and I also observed a number of Georgian men playing nardi (backgammon). Popular in Georgia, men, women, children and the elderly all know how to play it, and just about every family owns a backgammon set. They say that life in Georgia is like a game of backgammon – people tend to approach life like a game of chance.

Georgian men playing backgammon in the open

Georgian men playing nardi (backgammon) in the open (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

We also visited the town’s market, near the town hall, where fresh fruits and vegetables, locally made Georgian red (saperavi) and white wine and the clear and strong chacha (Georgian pomace brandy); natural honey; churchkhela (the traditional type of Georgian candy from the Caucasus region also referred to as the Georgian “Snickers”) and cheeses. Buddy and I each tried out a glass of Georgian wine.

An array of products sold at the market (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

There are also Georgian spice and spice mixes such as khmeli suneli (a powdered herb/spice mixture), adjika (a spicy paste or sauce seasoned with hot chili peppers) and pilpili (pepper) plus a picturesque array of knitted goods (Georgian socks with traditional patterns, local wool, hats, scarves, slippers, baby booties, etc.) for sale at cheap prices.

The town hall with its distinctive clock tower

Georgia National Tourism Administration: 4, Sanapiro St, 0105, Tbilisi, Georgia. Tel: +995 32 43 69 99. E-mail: info@gnta.ge. Website: www.georgia.travel; www.gnta.ge.

Qatar Airways has daily flights from Diosdado Macapagal International Airport (Clark, Pampanga) to Tbilisi (Republic of Georgia) with stopovers at Hamad International Airport (Doha, Qatar, 15 hrs.) and Heydar Aliyev International Airport (Baku, Azerbaijan, 1 hr.). Website: www.qatarairways.com.

Shoti Making at Badiauri Village (Sagarejo, Georgia)

Posted on 1 December, 2014 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

We were now on our third and final day of our GNTA-sponsored Georgian Countryside Tour and Buddy, Pancho, Melissa, Riva and I, together with our Georgian guide Sopho, were to travel east again on a 112-km./2-hr. drive, via S5, to the town of Sighnaghi. Just about 75 kms. and a little over an hour out of Tblisi, we made a stopover at the village of Badiauri in the town of Sagarejo where we dropped by a bakery. Here, we observed two elderly Georgian ladies making Georgian bread called puri (pronounced “poo-ree”), the Georgian table staple which is usually served with every meal.

Badiauri Village in Sagarejo

The traditional and very popular puri, especially the long pointed bread called shotis puri, is traditionally baked in a deep, circular, beehive-shaped oven called a tone (pronounced “ton-AY”). A tone (torne/turne in old Georgian), the Georgian version of the tandoor, is made with a mixture of special quartz sand, which is used in making glass, and a fireproof clay called chamuti. When it dries, it fuses into a hard, fireproof surface. This mixture is spread on the outside of the tone and wrapped in linen. The interior, on the other hand, is lined with fire proof bricks. A tone usually lasts for 7-8 years before it will need to be replaced.

The traditional clay oven called a tone

Most streets in Georgia have at least one traditional bakery and I have already observed one local bakery before when I was in Borjomi. In earlier times, all bakers came from Racha Region of Western Georgia and they are generally acknowledged to be the best bakers in Georgia.

The individual balls of dough

It takes time to learn how to make good bread which is made from just flour, water, yeast and salt. It also takes much physical strength to hand mix (25 kgs. at a time) and knead the dough but the two ladies were up to the task, taking lumps of dough, grasping them at two ends and stretching them across a kind of curved paddle covered in cloth.

Shaping the dough into spindle shapes

For at least 40 minutes, they let the dough stand for it to rise and the yeast to ferment. Then, they cut the mass of dough into individual “balls” of bread (each weighing about 600 gms.), place them in rows, dust them with flour (to prevent their sticking on the surface) and again let them stand for at least another hour.

Slapping the dough to the top side of the tone

Then, they roll the dough, making them spindle-shaped with a broad center portion and tapering ends. Once the tone reaches the desired heat, determined not by a thermometer but by testing the inside wall with loose flour, they then stick the paddle into the oven and skillfully slap the dough tightly against the inside wall of the tone sitting in the middle of the bakery.

The dough is baked for 10 minsutes

In less than 10 minutes, they were done and they took out the baked bread without dropping it in the fire. The fresh shoti come out looking like canoes. They were delicious, with crispy edges, a moist white center and a great aroma.

Freshly-baked shotis puri

Ten 50-kg. bags of flour can make more than 1,400 loaves of bread. Nowadays, modern bread factories use electrically powered mixers for the dough when making traditional bread.

The author with the 2 lady bakers

Georgia National Tourism Administration: 4, Sanapiro St, 0105, Tbilisi, Georgia. Tel: +995 32 43 69 99. E-mail: info@gnta.ge. Website:www.georgia.travel; www.gnta.ge.

Svetitskhoveli Cathedral of the Twelve Apostles (Mtskheta, Georgia)

Posted on 29 November, 2014 by Benjie Layug

After making our way down the hill from Jvari Monastery, Buddy, Pancho, Melissa, Riva and I, with Georgian guide Sopho, proceeded on our GNTA-sponsored tour to Mtskheta town center, making a long stopover at Svetitskhoveli Cathedral of the Twelve Apostles, known as the burial site of Jesus Christ’s mantle. The biggest ecclesiastical construction in medieval Georgia, it is also the second largest church in Georgia (after the Tsiminda Sameba Cathedral in Tblisi). In Georgian sveti means “pillar” and tskhoveli means “life-giving” or “living.”

Svetitskhoveli Cathedral

According to legend, St. Elias (or Elioz), a Georgian Jew from Mtskheta, brought Jesus Christ’s mantle to Georgia from Jerusalem, buying Jesus’ robe from a Roman soldier at the crucifixion site in Golgotha. His sister Sidonia touched the mantle and was so overcome by it that she immediately died in a passion of faith. Nobody was able to take away the mantle from her grasp and she was buried with it. Later, an enormous cedar tree later grew from Sidonia’s grave but people forgot the exact grave site.

In the 4th century, King Mirian decided to build the first church at Mtskheta and St. Nino ordered the cedar tree chopped down to build it. From the cedar tree she had seven columns made for the church foundations. However, the seventh column, designed to stand in its center, had magical properties and could not be raised from the ground as it rose by itself into the air. After an all-night prayer vigil by St Nino, the column miraculously moved of its own accord and returned to earth to the burial site of Sidonia and the robe. The seventh column subsequently worked many miracles.

The entrance gate

The cathedral is also the coronation and burial (10 are known to have been buried here, although only 6 tombs have been found, all before the altar) site of the kings of Georgia. The Svetitskhoveli complex includes the cathedral, the fragments of the palace and gates of the Catholicos Melchizedek I, all built in the 11^th century; and the 18^th century gates of Erekle II (Heraclius II) To enter, Sopho, Melissa and Riva had to cover their heads and wear a skirt. There were wrap-around skirts in a box near the door that could be worn over their trousers.

Sopho, Riva and Melissa in their wrap-around skirts

The cathedral, originally built as a wooden church during the reign of King Mirian III of Kartli (Iberia) in the 4th century, was replaced by a big 3-nave basilica built in the 480s by King Vakhtang Gorgasali. It has been damaged several times, notably by the invasions of Arabs (in the Abul Qasim raid, the church was used as a stable for camels), Seljuk Turks under Sultan Alp Arslan, the Persians under Shah Abbas I and Timur (also called Timurlaine) and, later, during the Russian subjugation and the Soviet period. The domed cathedral, an “inscribed cross” type of church, has a layout of an elongated rectangle and an ornamented facade with decorative arcading which unites the separate components of the structure.

Eastern facade

The present Svetitskhoveli Cathedral was rebuilt, from 1010 to 1029 (during the reign of King Giorgi I), by the architect Arsakidze, at the invitation of the Catholicos Melkisedek I of Georgia. Its cross-dome style of church architecture emerged in Georgia in the early Middle Ages and became the principle style after the political unification of Georgia by Bagrat III (978-1014). The church structure was intended to ensure good acoustics. Its dome, placed across all 4 sides of church was, over the centuries, reconstructed several times. It is supported by 4 lofty columns and contains 16 windows.

Sun emblem joined with a grave vine

Severely damaged by Timur (also called Timurlaine), it was rebuilt from 1413 to 1440 by King Aleksandre the Great who restored the western side of the cathedral and the collapsed cupola. In the 1837, on the occasion of a scheduled visit to Mskheta by Tsar Nicholas II (although in the end the tsar never came), more serious alterations took place when the richly ornamented galleries, narthexes, apses and subsidiary chapels on the north and south, from different periods, were ruthlessly swept away.

Painting of figures of the Zodiac

The interior, originally painted with frescoes, were whitewashed over and, only recently, after much careful restoration, some few remnants of the original paintings, including fragments of a 13th-century Beast of the Apocalypse and figures of the Zodiac, have been revealed again. The base of the basilica, built in the late 5th century by King Vakhtang Gorgasali, after St. Nino’s original church, was found during the restoration of 1970-71 (presided over by V. Tsintsadze).

Exploring the cathedral’s defensive wall

The cathedral’s defensive wall, built in 1787 with stone and brick during the reign of King Erekle II (Heraclius), has a top storey, designed for military purposes, with gun emplacements. From the wall, the entrance to the cathedral is located to the south. Of the wall’s 8 towers: 6 are cylindrical and 2 are square. In 1963, archaeological expeditions, at the southern part of the wall, found the house of the 11th century atriarch. Within the church yard, the remains of the 2-storey castle of Patriarch Anton II were found.

One of 6 cylindrical towers along the defensive wall

Sandy yellow stone, with trimmings, was used for the cathedral’s construction, red stone around the apse window and green stone in the drum of the cupola (dating from the 17th century). The curved blind arcading, from the 11th century, is unaltered throughout.

Large figure of Jesus painted in the 19th century by a Russian artist

A large window occupies most of the church’s western top side. An original sculpture on the wall, showing a sitting Christ with two angels at his side, though restored several times (most recently in the 19th century), has not survived. A relief sculpture, on the external northern wall, shows the symbol of the stonemason (a right arm and hand holding a chisel).

The cathedral altar’s iconostasis (wall of icons and religious paintings)

The walls are decorated with many Christian Orthodox icons, the majority of which date to the 20th century while some are copies of older icons and frescoes from other churches throughout Georgia. Most of the originals are in the national museums of Georgia. At the altar is a large figure of Jesus painted in the 19th century by a Russian artist. As in many Georgian churches, stonework here feature carved grapes, a reflection of the country’s ancient wine-making tradition.

Bull’s head at the eastern facade

Two bulls’ heads, from the 5th-century church, were incorporated into the east façade, a testimony of the folk influence on Christian iconography in that early period. On the right side, from the entrance of the cathedral, is a stone baptismal font, dating from the 4th century, thought to have been used for the baptism of King Mirian and Queen Nana. Immediately behind it, on the north façade, is a reproduction of the relief of Arsukidze’s right hand and bevel.

A reproduction of the relief of Arsukidze’s right hand and bevel

Built into the cathedral, on the south side, is a small stone and square cupola chapel built between the end of the 13th and the beginning the 14th centuries. A symbolic replica of the Chapel of Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem, it was built at the site to mark Svetitskhoveli as the second most sacred place (thanks to Christ’s robe) in the world (after the church of Jerusalem).

A symbolic replica of the Chapel of Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem

In front of the chapel is the most westerly structure, aligned with the columns between the aisle and the nave that marks Sidonia’s grave. Remains of the original life-giving pillar are found preserved inside a tower supported by columns near the dome inside the cathedral. Built in the 17th century, scenes of the lives of King Mirian and Queen Nana, plus portraits of the first Christian Byzantine Emperor, Constantine I, and his mother Helena, were painted by G. Gulzhavarashvili. Traces of the 4th-century church’s foundations have also been found here.

Burial place of Sidona

The second structure, aligned with the columns of the southern aisle, was also built in the 17th century as the throne of Catholicos Diasamidze (it no longer serves this function, as current tradition requires a throne for the Georgian patriarch to be in the center of the church).

The throne of Catholicos Diasamidze

The tombs of king buried here include that of King Vakhtang Gorgasali (identified by his the small candle fortress standing before it), King Erekle II (identifiable by the sword and shield upon it) and, next to him, is marble tomb of his son George XII, the last king of Georgia. In front of the altar are the tombs of David VI, George VIII, Luarsab I as well as those of various members of the Bagrationi royal family, including Tamar, the first wife of George XI, whose epitaph, dating from 1684, is written both in Georgian (Asomtavruli) and Arabic script. Also buried here are Patriarchs Melkisedec I and Domenti II.

Tomb of Prince Konstantin Bagration-Mukhransky

Svetitshoveli Cathedral impressed me by its immensity and it is very magnificent, both inside and out. Of all the Georgian churches I saw, this was my favorite. It has a distinct air of history to it, being a silent witness to history of Christian Georgia for 17 centuries. Directly opposite the entrance is a tourist information office and (nominal fee). At the cathedral grounds are shops, souvenir stalls, cafes, cobblestone roads, granite sidewalks, parking lot and houses with red tile roofs.

The author at Tsiminda Sameba Cathedral

Svetitskhoveli Cathedral: Narekvavi-Mtskheta-Railway Station, Arsukidze, Mtskheta, Georgia. Open daily, 8 AM – 10 PM.

How to Get There: Mtskheta is located about 20 kms. from Tbilisi. Mini buses run regularly every day of the week between Tbilisi’s Didube market and the main street in Mtskheta.

The cathedral grounds with the tourist information office on the right

Georgia National Tourism Administration: 4, Sanapiro St, 0105, Tbilisi, Georgia. Tel: +995 32 43 69 99. E-mail: info@gnta.ge. Website:www.georgia.travel; www.gnta.ge.

Hamad International Airport (Doha, Qatar)

Posted on 24 November, 2014 by Benjie Layug — 1 Comment ↓

Hamad International Airport

After a long, 9-hour flight from Diosdado Macapagal International Airport at Clark Freeport Zone in Pampanga, our Qatar Airways plane made its first stopover at Hamad International Airport (HIA) in the Arabian Gulf city of Doha, Qatar, the airline’s home, arriving there at 3 PM (Doha time).

The undulating roof of the passenger terminal

Here, we were to have an over 16-hour layover prior to continuing on our journey to Tbilisi, Republic of Georgia. Opened just last April, 30 2014 with the ambition of turning Doha into a global aviation hub serviced by Qatar Airways, this barely 5-month old international airport, designed by global design studio HOK, is one of the most advanced airports in the world. About 65% of the construction workers who built this airport are Filipinos.

Qatar Airways aircraft parked at the airport’s apron

Built over 22 sq. kms. (8.5 sq. mi.), half of which is on reclaimed land, this majestic structure’s expressive architecture reflects its coastal location. The undulating rooftop silhouette of this dramatic, curving building ripples away from the concourse in swooping peaks and troughs that recalls the ocean waves of the Arabian Gulf and sand dunes.This undulating super roof can be experienced by departing passengers in the light-filled departure hall while the undulating roof line is mimicked by vaulted metal ceilings in other concourses.

We probably arrived outside of its peak period as we walked through its beautiful hallways and lounges. As it was completely quiet, we were thinking we were the first to ever set foot in the place. There were no jarring announcements to disturb the calm. Being new, every gleaming surface of this hyper-clean airport’s lavish departure and arrival areas was spotless and its high ceilings and expansive concourses gave it a sense of grandeur.

The steel-framed glass wall, from the curbside arrival area through the ticketing hall, provided us with unobstructed views enabling us to easily find our destinations. The east and west facades have high-performance glass that controls solar heat gain and glare.

The sleek metal and glass surfaces contrast with a vast wood ceiling that provides visual warmth in the longest concourse. One thing I noticed was the deliberate lack of ornamentation, with graceful structural arches left unadorned. Terrazzo was used in high-circulation areas while carpet covered ancillary spaces.

Grand foyer of Duty-Free shopping hall

On the first floor, under a vast central skylight that provides visual access to one of five concourses, transfer passengers such as us, joined originating passengers, as we moved through an open immigration area. The two large transfer hubs were linked by an automatic people mover.

The arriving passengers then progress to the ground-floor baggage hall and exit to a triple-volume meeters and greeters hall which has direct access to taxi pavilions and an intermodal transportation hub. As we had hours to kill, we spent time exploring the airport. One thing that make HIA so unexpectedly cool is their groundbreaking pieces of modern art that, oftentimes, stop passengers in their tracks.

Lamp Bear (Urs Fischer)

The “Lamp Bear,” at the grand foyer of the airport’s duty-free shopping hall, is a giant, bronze, surreal, yellow teddy bear sitting under a black lamp, one of three creations by subversive Swiss artist Urs Fischer. This arresting sight, standing 7 m. tall and weighing approximately 18-20 tons, was previously displayed at the Seagram Building‘s plaza in New York City before it was purchased at a Christie’s auction for US$6.8 million by a member of the Qatari royal family. It at has a near-constant knot of people in front of it, grabbing selfie shots.

Playground (Tom Otterness, 2014)

Throughout the activity nodes in Concourse C, near gates C2, C3 and C8, are a series of eight large-scale interactive bronze sculptures done, by Tom Otterness, with slides and seats for limbs and play-pen-like chambers for torsos. Children and adults engage, interact and find recreational enjoyment with these bronze figures that appear to be in play with one another.

Author posing beside a McLaren MP4-12C Coupe on display at the world’s largest TAG Heuer airport boutique

The communal area seating, with all Italian-style chrome and leather, was fancy. Come evening, we got some shut eye on comfortable recliners within the peaceful surroundings of the quiet lounge. There are also family lounges for those travelling with kids. These quiet rooms, as well as the spacious hold rooms, passenger activity nodes and 17 airline lounges, are all enveloped by glass. Natural light and dramatic evening desert views are provided by skylights and interconnecting glass ceiling “zippers.”

Duty-free shops

The free Wi-Fi at Hamad International Airport was fast and unlimited (simply connect to “HIAQatar Complimentary WiFi”). For standard passengers like us just passing through, there were plenty of the usual airport restaurant and retail options plus numerous upscale boutiques including Gucci, Burberry, Coach, Rolex, Swarovski and others. A lot of Filipinos also work in these shops. On another stopover here on my return to Manila, one of them assisted me when I bought a Sony A-3000 digital SLR camera in one of these shops

Hamad International Airport: Doha, State of Qatar. Tel: +974 465 66 66 (office) and +974 462 29 99 (flight information). Fax: +974 462 20 44. IATA Code: DOH. ICAO Code: OTHH. E-mail: diainfo@qatarairways.com. Website: www.dohahamadairport.com.

The Chinese Compound (Pasay City)

Posted on 11 November, 2014 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

From My Mother’s Garden, we began the afternoon leg of our AAP-sponsored Pasay Media Familiarization Tour, proceeding, along F.B. Harrison St., to a compound where, upon entering its red main gate, I was instantly transported to another place and time smack in the middle of urban chaos, which makes for an interesting contrast.

The Chinese Compound

Set amidst lush greenery is an interesting enclave of 15 post-World War II, medium-sized and nearly identical 2-storey houses. All these houses, designed to facilitate air flow before the introduction of air-conditioning, have high ceilings, large windows and a second floor balcony. Its floors are laden with Machuca tiles.

The boutiue hotel

Formerly a residential abode for the Chinese owner’s large family (it is called the Chinese Compound), this tree-lined compound simply awed me with its old-world charm and serenity. Some of these 1950s houses are just regular homes of people not connected to the artistic world but several of the homes now house several interesting establishments such as the art gallery of Albert Avellana (Avellana Art Gallery), the atelier of top fashion designer Jesus “Jojie” Lloren and the furniture showroom (Artelano 11 Furniture Gallery- A11) of interior designer Eric Paras which occupies 2 houses.

Artelano 11 Furniture Gallery

Five of the houses are also being turned into a boutique hotel, an example of adaptive reuse. It will have a swimming pool and a restaurant. We all toured each of these establishments (save for the boutique hotel which was still being constructed) which made the compound an artistic hotbed ever since it was occupied by creative souls. All are filled with art, classic French crockery, rustic table settings and furniture and decor that channel everything from Art Deco to mid century to a more industrial style. The space is reputed to be a source for well-known interior designers all over the country.

An A 11 furniture showroom

The Artelano 11 Furniture Gallery, opened last January 2013, houses, in a home setting, many of Eric’s designer furniture plus some items he brought in from elsewhere. They include a double-tiered, mid-century side tables; metal-based furniture pieces such as an iron bed frame with a wood-framed screen upholstered in toile de jouy fabric; a mid-century ambassador’s chair finished in black; an antique writing desk refinished in a dark hue; table tops and shelving units with thick slabs of exotic wood; a 4-panel screen, hung with small artwork, made with old doors; low console table, for Eric’s line of lighting, made from an enormous wood column; a metal framed lamp, topped by a marble cylindrical shade, with geometric patterns; a marble wash basin filled with decorative woven rattan balls; a pair of side tables, topped with polished white marble, with hollowed wood bases etched with designs in a random pattern; a cylindrical center table base wrapped with metal strips in a loose weave pattern; and Eric’s collection of colorful ceramic accessories.

Another A 11 showroom

The Avellana Art Gallery, opened in 1997, specializes in eye-catching Filipino art. Its genteel old space was turned by Albert into a retro-modern gallery for the functional art. The two floors are full of art, with the top floor being used for moving exhibitions, a perfect venue for new and more established artists. At the entrance lobby is the sculpture “Love From Above” by Pidge Reyes.

Avellana Art Gallery

Love from Above by Pidge Reyes

At the atelier of Jojie Lloren, we were welcomed by the mild-mannered and pleasant designer himself. We all listened to him at his spacious living room, sitting at contemporary chairs around an old round table. His atelier looks a bit French Art Nouveau, the compact space of his workshop made stylish and beautified, in the bayanihan spirit, by his close friends.

Listening to Jojie Lloren at his atelier

There were furniture pieces (couch, ceramic garden stools, etc.) from Eric Paras’ A11, a louver screen from Albert Avellana, a bird cage from designer James Reyes, and a chandelier from lighting designer Ricky David; all these things close to Jojie’s heart. Jojie also added period pieces he bought from thrift shops along Evangelista St. in Makati. His display of Filipino religious includes antique Marian medallions ((that spell out his name) and modern Marian prints by Virgilio Aviado. There are also paintings, including one from Popo San Pascual.

Reception area with a chandelier from Ricky David, couch from Eric Paras and louver screen from Albert Avellana

Despite the heavy Pasay traffic and braving the pollution and the gritty stretch of urban decay on that day, the sudden change of atmosphere, once inside this place of calm, was truly worth the extra effort.

Religious art collection of Jojie

Avellana Art Gallery: Unit A-19, 2680 F.B.Harrison St., Pasay City. Tel: (632) 833-8357. E-mail: avellana_gallery@yahoo.com. Open Mondays to Saturdays, 10 AM to 7 PM.

Atelier of Jojie Lloren: Unit A-17 2680 F.B Harrison St., 1300 Pasay City. Tel: (632) 556-4725, (632) 641-9347 and (632) 401-1194. Fax: (632) 896-7199. E-mail: lyorenne@hotmail.com.

Artelano 11 Furniture Gallery: Unit A-11, 2680 F.B. Harrison St., 1300 Pasay City. Tel: (632) 832-9972. Mobile number: (0917) 837-0115. E-mail: a_eleven05@yahoo.com.

Automobile Association Philippines (AAP): 28 EDSA, Greenhills, San Juan City. Tel: (632) 655-5889. Fax: (632) 655-1878. E-mail: info@aap.org.ph. Website: www.aap.org.ph.

AAP Travel: G/F, Sea Tower Bldg., 2332 Roxas Blvd. cor. Arnaiz Ave., Pasay City. Tel: (632) 551-0025. Fax: (632) 551-0014. E-mail: info@aaptravel.com. Website:www.aaptravel.com.ph.

Bohol Bee Farm (Dauis, Bohol)

Posted on 3 October, 2014 by Benjie Layug — 1 Comment ↓

Bohol Bee Farm

After breakfast, a dip at the lagoon pool and an ocular inspection, with Rooms Division manager Mr. Leo P. Go, of the resort’s Honeymoon Villas, it was now time to check out of Panglao Bluewater Resort. After thanking our gracious host, Mr. Pete Dacuycuy (who left for Manila ahead of us), we again boarded our airconditioned coach which was to bring us to the next town of Dauis. Here, we were to have lunch at the homey and relaxing Bohol Bee Farm.

Potted herbs and vegetables

This self-sustaining, nature-themed and eco-friendly resort is filled with rustic wooden furniture and a unique lush, green environment. Alugbati vines grow on the trellises while the frontage is filled with small plots of various organic herbs (oregano, dill, fennel, basil, spearmint, pandan, magic rose, thyme, chives, lemon grass, peppermint, parsley, aloe vera, stevia, coriander, rosemary and tarragon) and vegetables (romaine lettuce, celery, eggplant, mustard, etc.), all used as ornamental plants and lining the walkways.

The cliff with the sun deck and swimming area below it

This agricultural haven, situated on top of a cliff that drops dramatically into the sea (the swimming area below it is accessible by a flight of wooden stairs), was once dedicated to bee cultivation but the bees perished and the farm was moved to Inabanga.

The 2-tiered indoor swimming pool

The farm promotes healthy eating and we were here to sample a delicious and unique buffet lunch, which uses organically-grown vegetables, at its restaurant overlooking the sea. On our way to the restaurant, we passed the resort’s lounge area and two-tiered, indoor swimming pool.

The restaurant

Too bad, resort owner and chef Victoria “Vicky” Wallace-Sandidge, a Bohol-born and New York-based nurse-turned-farmer, wasn’t around to entertain us. Married to African- American Thomas Edward Wallace, she had two children (Mellanie and Abdul) with him but was widowed in 1988. In 1991, she bought a 4.8-hectare property and established the Bee Farm two years later. Here, she promotes organic farming which doesn’t use expensive conventional fertilizers and harmful pesticides for the farm’s crops. Vicky sits as an active member of the Bohol Initiatives for Sustainable Agriculture and Development (BIFAD).

Organic garden salad. Notice the edible flowers? They say that any flower being sucked by bees is not poisonous and, therefore, is edible

Cabcab with pesto & green tomatoes

We started our lunch buffet (reasonably priced at PhP600/pax), amidst the cool sea breeze and stunning ocean view, with glasses of fresh lemongrass juice; a very spicy, colorful and tasty organic garden salad (romaine lettuce, turnips, mustard greens and indigenous flowers topped with honey mustard dressing); an appetizer of light, crisp cabcab (mashed cassava pulp dried and deep fried into thin wafers or crackers) with a dip of pesto & green tomato; and a bowl of seafood soup.

Grilled marlin

Honey-glazed chicken

Spare ribs

The main dishes consisted of grilled marlin, honey-glazed chicken and spare ribs plus seafood lasagna, organic red rice with camote, and squash bread with homemade spreads. Dessert was healthy and very delicious, homemade ube and malunggay (moringa) ice cream.

Seafood lasagna

Squash bread with homemade spreads

After lunch, we proceeded to the Buzz Shop, their gift and souvenir shop up front which sells all sorts of organic products. On sale are various vegetable breads and muffins (squash muffins, carrot muffins, camote bread, honeyed muffins, etc.); fruit and vegetable chips (cassava, banana, etc.); spreads (honey, mango, pesto, choco, etc.); a variety of teas, both in leaf and powdered form (including the very popular honeyed ginger tea); black berry wine; native vinegar; kape mais (coffee made from roasted corn and wild berries); and dried cabcab.

An array of food products

They also sell wild honey from the farm; bee propolis, pure honeybee pollen, honeyed tableya, honeyed garlic; honeyed mustard salad dressing and honeyed hot sauce. You can also buy soap (milk, papaya, lemongrass, etc.); buri and raffia woven products; beewax lip balm; virgin coconut oil; and honey or pollen-based shampoos and lotions.

Souvenir shop

We have already sampled the homemade ube and malunggay ice cream but we still visited the small Buzzz ice cream shop to check out their other very exotic offerings (PhP40 for 1 scoop and PhP80 for 2 scoops) – chocolate, durian, avocado, pandan, tomato, mango, guyabano, spicy ginger and buko (young coconut). Their ice cream is the star of their very unique and interesting halo-halo.

Buzzz Ice Cream

After our pasalubong shopping and prior to leaving, Mr. Ariel B. Logrono, a staff member of the farm took us on a 30-min. guided tour. He first gave us a lecture on different organic farming methods. The resort practices vermiculture, mostly using their waste products mixed with animal manure for vermicompost. After 6 months, it is then used as fertilizer.

Listening to Ariel’s lecture on organic farming

They also practice the concept of companion planting, a form of polyculture wherein different crops are planted in close proximity to each other. The theory is that these plants assist each other in nutrient uptake, pest control, pollination, and other factors necessary for increasing crop productivity.

Companion planting at work. Grasshoppers feeding on their favorite leaves but leaving the nearby herbs intact

We were also given a highly educational tour of the Crafts and Livelihood section of the resort, our guide demonstrating and giving inputs on the process involved in each activity. Here, the Bohol Bee Farm staff are encouraged to do livelihood activities such as raffia making, basket making and sewing, enabling them to give a little back to the community.

Crafts and Livelihood Section

Seasonal basket and raffia decors

At the center, we observed members of the cooperative operating looms and sewing machines as they turned raffia and buri palm leaves into fabric sheets, bags, place mats, purses, slippers, curtains, seasonal decors, table runners, tissue holders, hats and other merchandise. The loom weavers made it look so easy, their shuttles zipping back and forth without hardly any effort. A 10-foot long sheet of raffia fabric usually takes 3 to 4 days to complete.

Observing loom weaving

Bohol Bee Farm: Brgy. Dao, Dauis, Panglao Island, 6339 Bohol. Tel: (038) 502 2288 and (038) 510-1821 to 22. Mobile number: (0917) 710-1062, (0939) 904-6796 and (0917) 304-1491. E-mail: vickywallace@boholbeefarm.com. Website: www.boholbeefarm.com.

Manga Public Market and Lic Lic Fastfood & Sutukil (Tagbilaran City, Bohol)

Posted on 2 October, 2014 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

Manga Public Market

After viewing the sunset (and the tectonic uplift along its coast) at the Punta Cruz Watchtower in Maribojoc, we all head over to Tagbilaran City where we were to experience dampa-style dining by first buying fresh seafood at the Manga Public Market (below the old city hall along the road to Cortes) and then have it cooked any way we want it (called paluto or “have it cooked”), for a minimal fee, at a nearby eatery for our dinner. Just after 4 PM, fishermen who have returned, deposit their daily seafood catch at the market.

Parrotfish

Upon arrival, we wandered the aisles of the market, checking out what’s on offer. We found tables piled high with fresh seafood delicacies such as lapu-lapu (grouper), baby sea eels, kitang/samaral (rabbit fish), sea cucumbers, bottles of fresh sea urchin roe, five kinds of seashells, squid, crabs, octopus, etc.. Josue picked out lapu-lapu, squid, some kinason shellfish and fish. While he was doing so, we bought some crispy, ready-to-eat chicharon (PhP50 per 100 grams) as pasalubong for our loved ones back home.

Octopus

After Josue paid for the seafood, we all headed, across the street, to the Lic Lic Fastfood & Sutukil (sugba, tuwa, kilaw) which is about 20 m. down the road, towards Tagbilaran City. In the kitchen, at the back of the restaurant, Josue clearly and precisely explained to the cook how we liked your meal prepared.

Crispy chicharon

The fish was charcoal grilled, the lapu-lapu was prepared in sweet and sour sauce, the shellfish in some soup with loads of ginger while the squid was stewed in its own ink (which intensifies its seafood flavor). We also requested for some pinakbet and steamed rice.

Our paluto

As this is a very basic restaurant, we didn’t expect silverware, crystal wine glasses, exceptional service or amazing ambiance. This place is all about the deliciously prepared food we partook of after our Abatan River Firefly Tour. We weren’t disappointed and we returned to our resort with our tummies full. Truly, a must-do, one-of-a-kind dining experience in Bohol.

Feasting on seafood at Lic Lic Fastfood

Manga Public Market: Carlos P. Garcia Ave. North, Manga District, Tagbilaran City, 6300 Bohol

Lic Lic Fastfood & Sutukil: Carlos P. Garcia Ave. North, a District, Tagbilaran City, 6300 Bohol. Mobile numbers: (0929) 394-6803 and (0910) 301-2139.

Church of St. John the Baptist (Liliw, Laguna)

Posted on 26 August, 2014 by Benjie Layug — 1 Comment ↓

After lunch at Liliw Fast Food, I took advantage of a lull in the rain and walked up the road towards the town’s red brick and adobe Church of St. John the Baptist. This church was first built in wood in October 1620, rebuilt in stone from 1643 to 1646 but was partially destroyed during the July 18, 1880 earthquake. The church and convent were reconstructed in 1885 but partially burned on April 6, 1898.

Church of St. John the Baptist

The church’s elegant, 3-level Baroque-style facade, divided by superpositioned columns into 7 segments and extending up to the pediment, has a semicircular arched main entrance finished with irregularly cut block of stones surmounted by layers of bricks, a bas-relief depicting the Baptism of Christ by St. John the Baptist on the second level and a centrally located statued niche on the undulating pediment.

The church’s three retablos

On the right is the immense, moss-covered, 3-storey bell tower covered by a dome and topped by a tower. It has a good view of Laguna de Bay. Inside the church are retablos (altar backdrops) finished in gold leaf. The 4-level retablo mayor (main altar) at the center contains 13 niches housing statues of saints. The center of the lowest level contains the tabernacle. The two side retablos houses 4 niches of saints. A stained glass dome is located above the main altar. Regretfully, the ceiling of red brick and mahogany-finished wood was painted white.

The dome above altar

Before leaving, I entered a small passageway to the left of the main entrance to visit the Capilla de Buenaventura, a small chapel dedicated to Franciscan Fr. Pedro de San Buenaventura, author of Vocabulario de la Lengua Tagala, the first Tagalog dictionary which was printed in Pila, Laguna in 1613. His image is enclosed in a glass case which is believed to be 500 years old. Here, I lighted a bundle of 7 multi-colored candles which I bought for PhP40. On the right side of the church’s entrance is the church’s Perpetual Adoration Chapel.

Capilla de Buenaventura

The church’s grounds, developed to promote Christian teachings for pilgrims, has a patio with a white-painted statue of the Sacred Heart of Jesus flanked by several whitewashed statues of different saints, the child Jesus and the Virgin Mary.

The church’s patio

Church of St. John the Baptist: Poblacion, Liliw 4004, Laguna. Tel: (049) 563-3511 and (049) 234-1031.

How To Get There: Liliw is located 110 kms. from Manila and 17 kms. from Sta. Cruz.

Church of Pope St. Gregory the Great (Majayjay, Laguna)

Posted on 26 August, 2014 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

From Lucban, we finally crossed the Quezon-Laguna boundary, into Majayjay where we made a short stopover at the town’s Church of Pope St. Gregory the Great. This would be my second visit to the town, having done so 12 years ago (October 13, 2002) with Jandy. This Augustinian-built church is now listed, by the National Museum, as a National Cultural Treasure.

Church of Pope St. Gregory the Great

The moss and vine-covered side of the church

I featured the town and its church in my article Hay Hay! Majayjay which appeared in TODAY (November 10, 2002) and a previous B.L.A.S.T. blog entry. Its unusually tall, stone and brick colonial Baroque facade, with its 6-m. thick adobe walls (though still covered with unsightly vines and moss), was still impressive even after all those years.

The church’s long rectangular nave

The plaque installed by the National Historical Institute (NHI)

During my first visit, I wasn’t able to explore the church interior in detail as a wedding was ongoing at that time. This time there wasn’t any wedding as we walked the azulejo-tiled floor of the 60-m. long and 17-m. wide, rectangular nave, admiring the antique relief statues of saints lining it, the wooden balconies above it on both sides, an elaborately decorated wooden pulpit accessed by a stair, a Sto. Entierro, and the 3 elaborate retablos (altar backdrops) with its pantheon of saints.

The 3 impressive retablos

The wooden pulpit

Violeta, Lanny and I were also able to go up the hexagonal bell tower, via the choir loft, just as we did in Pagbilao. Jandy and Maricar stayed behind. Of equally huge proportions as the church, the bell tower was supported by unusual 16.5-m. high solid buttresses. The catwalk above the ceiling (called langit-langitan), leading to the crossing above the transept, can no longer be accessed as it has deteriorated.

The dome above the altar

Violet and Lanny climbing the stairs going up to the bell tower

Unlike the bell tower of Pagbilao, the stairs going up was sturdy concrete with steel railings. And just like in Pagbilao, we also had a commanding view, upon reaching the top, of the town as well as Laguna de Bay . The tower had 5 century-old bells. its main bell was said to weigh about 3,000 kgs. and its thunderous peal can be heard 3 kms. away.

One of the church bells

View of the town from the top of the bell tower

Church of Pope St. Gregory the Great: Poblacion, Majayjay, Laguna. Tel: (049) 258-1012.

How To Get There: Majayjay is located 120 kms. from Manila and 18 kms. from Sta. Cruz.

Eker & Ely Lucban Longganisa and Pasalubong (Lucban, Quezon)

Posted on 26 August, 2014 by Benjie Layug — 7 Comments ↓

From the church, Jandy, Maricar, Violet, Lanny and I walked towards Eker & Ely Lucban Longganisa and Pasalubong, situated just behind the church where, we were told, we could buy the best Lucban longganisa. It was raining heavily, so we brought our umbrellas with us. Established in 1958 (incidentally the year I was born), Eker & Ely is one of 10 longganisa makers in town.

Their Lucban Longanisa is sold by the dozen – P150 for big longanisa and P55 for small. I bought two dozen packs of the former while the others bought packs of the latter. It’s a good thing we arrived here in the morning as their longganisa is usually sold out by afternoon.

Longganisa hung on poles for buyers to see

Aside from their bestseller longganisa, the store also sells different delicacies made in Lucban and other parts of the country. The list includes macaroons, coco jam, broas (the local version of ladyfingers), uraro, miki lucban, piaya, pastillas, mazapan, galletas (egg cracklets) espasol, achara, espasol, coco vinegar, peanut brittle, peanuts, cashews, etc.

Lanny, Violet and Maricar deciding on what to buy for pasalubong

Eker & Ely Lucban Longganisa and Pasalubong: 114 A. Racelis Ave., Lucban, Quezon. Tel: (042) 540-3304. Mobile number (0920) 237-9056.

How To Get There: Lucban is located 160.36 km. from Manila and 23.7 kms. north of Lucena City. From Manila, it can be accessed via the South Luzon Expressway (SLEX, exit at Turbna) and the Manila East Road.

This travel blog, a diary of the author’s local and international travels, aims to provide the reader with news and information on people, places and events that would interest the avid traveler and tourist. But, it also aims to be much more, providing insights on the wonders of this beautiful country, as well as the world, beyond the strict confines of the city. Have a BLAST seeing old churches, exotic temples, educational museums as well as palm-fringed islands; white sand beaches; thundering waterfalls; placid lakes; fiery sunsets; turquoise seas; cathedral-like caves; swirling rivers; majestic mountains; stupendous, amphitheater-like rice terraces; awesome volcanoes and the like. Get to know the movers and shakers in the tourism industry; find out where to titillate the palate; rejuvenate your body; feed your adrenalin, unwind and relax; satisfy your craving for history and culture; and find out what's being celebrated and where.

BENJAMIN “BENJIE” LAYUG, an architect by profession (he finished his B. S. Architecture degree from the University of the Philippines Diliman in 1982), is also a copy editor for two publishing houses; travel writer; blogger; architectural historian; author; concert. movie and musical reviewer (for www.pep.ph); and a motivational speaker.

As a free-lance travel writer, he has, in the past, contributed articles to Travel Update, Philippine Daily Inquirer, COLORS, TODAY, 7107 Islands Magazine, Business Day and Bluprint. He currently writes for Artplus Magazine and the Business Mirror.

He is also the author of the following travel books:

A Philippine Odyssey (New Day Publishers, 2005)
Pathfinder’s Travel Guide: Boracay (Great Books Trading, 2006)
A Tourist Guide to Notable Philippine Churches (New Day Publishers, 2007)
A Tourist to Notable Philippine Historical Landmarks, Monuments and Shrines (New Day Publishers, 2010)
A Tourist Guide to Notable Philippine Museums (New Day Publishers, 2012)

Some of his books now appear in the local library shelves of the National Library of the Philippines, De La Salle University, Ateneo de Manila University, University of Sto. Tomas, U.P. Diliman, Centro Escolar University, San Sebastian College, Miriam College, Silliman University, to name a few, as well as internationally at the National Library of Australia and the University of California Berkeley Library.

Now a senior citizen, he is probably one of the oldest, if not the oldest, active travel blogger in the country today. He also has a lifestyle blog called F.Y.I.:Firing Your Imagination (www.firingyourimagination.blogspot.com). Benjie has traveled to two-thirds (53) of the country’s 81 provinces and over 20 countries in 4 continents.