Nara Park (Nara, Japan)

Nara Park

Our fourth full day in Japan was to be spent on a whole day tour of Nara, a 32-km. (35-min.) drive from Osaka.  Our first stopover was to be Nara Park (Nara Kōen), a public park at the foot of Mount Wakakusa , designated as one of the “Places of Scenic Beauty” by the Ministry of Education, Culture, Sports, Science and Technology (MEXT). One of the oldest parks in Japan, it was established in 1880.

The park, under the administrative control of Nara Prefecture, is known for its over 1,200 wild, freely roaming sika deer (shika) around in the park that are also under designation of MEXT and classified as Natural Treasures. The sika deer were considered divine and sacred by both Kasuga Grand Shrine and Kōfuku-ji.

L-R: Mark, the author, Matthew, Nenette, Jandy, Grace and Miguel at Nara Park

According to local folklore,  Takemikazuchi, one of the four gods of Kasuga Grand Shrine, received an invitation from Kashima Shrine (in present-day Ibaraki Prefecture) and he was said to, and appeared on Mount Mikasa (also known as Mount Wakakusa) riding a white deer. From that point, killing one of these sacred deer was a capital offense up until 1637, the last recorded date of a breach of that law.

The author, Miguel and Jandy feeding the deer

While the official size of the park is about 502 hectares (1,240 acres), defined by the Urban Park Act in 1960, the surrounding  area including the grounds of the Nara National Museum and Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples, which are either on the edge or surrounded by Nara Park, is as large as 660 hectares (1,600 acres).

Deer engaged in territorial behavior by bumping heads

Within the 660-hectare area are World Heritage Sites (Tōdai-jiKōfuku-jiKasuga Grand Shrine and the Kasugayama Primeval Forest), registered under the title Historic Monuments of Ancient Nara, as well as 47 buildings and 374 arts and crafts (mainly consisting of Buddhist statues and religious arts and crafts) designated as National Treasures and Important Cultural Properties found in the grounds of Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines such as Todai-ji, Kofuku-ji, Kasuga Grand Shrine, ShōsōinShin-Yakushi-jiGangō-ji, and others; designated by the Japanese government.

Check out “Kofuku-ji Temple” and “Todai-ji Temple”

One of 1,700 cherry blossom trees in the park

The Kasugayama Primeval Forest is also designated as a Special Natural Monument (Tokubetsu Tennen Kinenbutsu), while the sika deer, the habitat of the Panchala ganesa butterfly, the Nageia nagi tree forest of Kasuga Grand Shrine, and the Prunus verecunda “Antiqua” tree of Chisokuin are designated as Natural Monuments (Tennen Kinenbutsu).

Japanese Evergreen Oak (Ichiigashi)

Aside from sika deer, the other wild animals that inhabit the park include  wild boarJapanese raccoon dogsJapanese giant flying squirrels and Japanese squirrels, among others. The vegetation consists of pine trees (matsu, some reported to be over 1,000 years old), roughly 1,700 cherry blossom trees (including shidarezakura weeping varieties), camphor trees (kusu), maple trees (momiji), plum treesJapanese cedar (sugi) and Japanese pieris, among others.

Jinrikisha (Japanese Rickshaw)

For centuries, the Nara deer have coexisted with the city’s inhabitants, and now, the multitude of travelers coming, from far and wide, to take their picture-perfect selfies with them. Any visit to Nara Park is never complete without frolicking amongst, and feeding its herds of four-legged creatures. The deer are known for bowing their heads to tourists to request specially sold, registered shika-senbei (“deer-crackers”), at 200¥ per pack, which are exclusively sold by the WNOW company.

These bows are learned (not instinctual) gestures to get food and deer can be highly opportunistic, using bows as an “implied threat” for food.  The experience can unnerving for others who flee in terror as a dozen more of them surround them in search of their own treats. They can also be aggressive, biting, chasing, or head-butting visitors for crackers.

Nara Park: 469 Zoshicho, Nara, 630-8501, Japan. Tel: +81 742-22-0375. Coordinates: 34.685°N 135.85°E

How to Get There: Nara Park is serviced by the Kintetsu Nara Station (a 5-min. walk) and is reachable by the Kintetsu Line from Osaka-Namba Station.

Ikuta Jinja Shrine (Kobe, Japan)

Ikuta Jinja Shrine

After our tour of Meriken Park, it was just a short 2-km. drive to the wonderful Ikuta Shrine (Ikuta-jinja).  A major shrine in Kobe, is believed to be one of the oldest Shinto shrines in Japan.  Famous as a “power spot” for matchmaking and love, dotted around the grounds of Ikuta Jinja are 14 sub-shrines, each dedicated to a different god. This shrine, in Kobe’s city center, has spacious grounds, impressive buildings and, at its rear, you can find a remnant of the ancient forest that once covered the entire area.

Check out “Meriken Park

The author (left) with Miguel, Nenette, Jandy, Matthew, Grace and Mark

According to Nihon Shoki (Nihongi), the second oldest book of of classical Japanese history, it was founded in 201 AD by the Empress Jingū to enshrine the goddess (kami) Wakahirume-no-Mikoto. Empress Jingu was returning from the Three Kan campaign on the Korean Peninsula, when her ship was nearly shipwrecked by bad weather. By praying to Watatsumi, she managed to survive by stopping at what is now Kobe harbor. Upon arrival, she held a divination ceremony that summoned the goddess Wakahirume-no-Mikoto, and the goddess said she wanted a shrine to be built for her in a place called Ikuta.

Old wooden torii

The shrine was originally located, on a sand dune, further north from its current location on Mount Isagoyama. However, in 799 AD, terrible floods threatening to wash the shrine away forced priest Tone Shichidayu to carry the goddess, in a portable shrine, to search for a new home. After 8 days, the portable shrine suddenly became too heavy.  Taking this as a divine message, the goddess was re-enshrined at its present location.

Tower Gate

In 806 AD, 44 households were given responsibility for the care and protection of the shrine and given the title kanbe (meaning “sacred households”). This was the origin of the name of the city of “Kobe,” which is written with the same characters.

Chozu-ya basin

In 1938, the shrine suffered damage during floods and, in 1945, was severely damaged during air raids in World War II.  On January 17, 1995, the shrine suffered significant damage during the Great Hanshin-Awaji Earthquake. However, following each tragic event the shrine was restored with the support of local citizens. As a result, Ikuta Jinja is now loved and respected by the people of Kobe as a symbol of the city’s resilience and resurrection.

Ikuta Shrine Earthquake Recovery Monument

Before entering the shrine, there’s a chozu-ya (or temizuya), a traditional roofed Shinto water ablution pavilion, on the right, where we would ritually purify ourselves, by taking a bamboo scoop and washing our hands and mouth with the water, before approaching the splendid shaden (main shrine building), flanked by lion-dog statues (komainu), where you can softly murmur prayers in your mind.

Shaden (Main Shrine)
Interior of Shanden

We entered the shrine through the striking, vermilion-lacquered tower gate (ro-mon) which marks the transition, from bustling city, to the forested shrine grounds. 

Lion-Dog Statue (Komainu)
Fox Statue (Kitsune)

After passing through the impressive tower gate, we saw booths, on either side, selling a variety of omamori (protective charms) and omikuji (fortune paper slips). To the left of the shaden is a picturesque pond, with lotus flowers (in full bloom from July to August), ducks and koi (Japanese carp), called Ikuta-no-ike.  The serene, leafy pond has a small island accessible by a bridge. 

Ikuta-no-ike

On the island is a small sub-shrine called Ichikishima Jinja, dedicated to Ichikishima-hime, (also called Benzaiten), the goddess of water and all things that flow (like language, performing arts and music).  This peaceful retreat is often visited for romantic blessings.

Ichikishima Jinja

Near the entrance of Ikuta Jinja are two quite important sub-shrines. Just after the second torii gate, on the left side, is the maritime-focused Daikai Jinja (literally “Ocean Shrine”) with a red torii

Daikai Jinja

Dedicated to Sarutahiko-no-Mikoto, a god of guidance and travel, people pray here for safety at sea which is very important in a port city like Kobe. On the right side is Matsuo Jinja with a concrete gray torii. Dedicated to Oyamakui, the god of farming and sake brewing, this is an important shrine as Kobe is the home of many famous sake breweries.

Ikuta-no-mori

At the far end of Ikuta Jinja’s grounds, behind the shaden, is the quiet and peaceful Ikuta-no-mori, the remains of an ancient forest. The forest was the site of the Battle of Ichi-no-Tani, a major battle during the the end of the Heian Period Genpei War (1180-1185), commemorated by markers. Today, Ebira and Ikuta Atsumori, two Noh plays which retell aspects of the Genpei War, are performed, on a regular basis, every year at Ikuta’s Autumn Festival (Akimatsuri), near the Ikuta Shrine. Ikutamorizasha, a sub-shrine inside the forest, is dedicated to the Empress Jingū. People pray here for growing things and for the safe birth of babies.

Cherry blossoms

At Kinryusen, a popular spot in the forest, you can have your fortune read by water.  When you float an initially-blank mizu-omikuji (a Japanese water-activated fortune slip bought at the shrine office, 300 yen) on the water, your fortune (only available in Japanese) will appear, split into different categories such as your lucky color, location, place and more.  Truly, a delightful and interactive experience for visitors.

Lady floating an initially-blank mizu-omikuji at the kinryusen

We also saw rows of omikuji (also in English, Korean and simplified and traditional Chinese) tied to racks. The goddess of weaving, Wakahirume is said to be good at making connections (whether these be business connections or romantic connections) so people pray to her for prosperity in business and happy marriages.

Omikuji (paper fortunes)

Also, as the shrine has survived many disasters in the past, people also pray here for their health and for protection from calamity.  Visitors often make a small donation and draw an omikuji to discover their luck in love and business.  If it’s bad luck, they tie it to a rack to leave the bad luck behind.

Sacred camphor tree

Also within the forest are the remains of a camphor tree which was around 500 years old (seen from its rings) when it fell. It is considered sacred and is seen as a symbol of reconstruction and revival because it survived the bombing of Kobe during World War II and, although terribly burned, it recovered and continued to live for many years.

Inari Shrine

Within the forest, you can also walk through a striking, continuous series of 22 vermillion-lacquered torii gates (often referred to as a “row of red torii), donated in 2016, leading to the Inari Shrine dedicated to Uganomitama-no-Mikoto, the very important god of food, rice (the traditional staple food of Japan) and business prosperity who is also considered the god of fertility and life.

Series of torii

Ikuta Jinja Shrine: 1-2-1 Shimoyamate-dōri, Chūō-ku, KobeHyōgo prefecture 650-0011. Tel: +81 78-321-3851.  Open daily, 8:30 AM to 6:30 PM. Admission is free.  Coordinates: 34°41′42″N 135°11′26″E.

How to Get There: Ikuta Jinja is a short 10-min. walk from JR Sannomiya Station. Here is a map showing its location.

Hyogo Prefectural Maiko Park (Kobe, Japan)

Hyogo Prefectural Maiko Park

From Meriken Park, it was a 16.1-km. (30-min. drive) to our second stopover – the exotic atmosphere of Hyogo Prefectural Maiko Park.   This 7.8-hectare oceanside city park features large grassy areas with sea and bridge views; a 1,500-pine forest; the Akashi Kaikyo Bridge Exhibition Center (displays showing the history of what is the world’s longest suspension bridge) and several historic houses. The current Maiko Park was opened as the first Hyogo prefectural urban park in 1900.

Check out “Meriken Park

Akashi Kaikyo Bridge Exhibition Center

There are plenty of things to do and see at the park.  It is the gateway for the 3,911 m. long Akashi-Kaikyo Bridge which is the world’s largest suspension bridge. Linking Hyogo Prefecture (Kobe) with Awaji Island, it also boasts the world’s longest central span at 1,991 meters. At night, the bridge is illuminated with colorful lights.  This stunning sight, for those crossing the strait, has earned it the nickname “Pearl Bridge.”

L-R: Jandy, the author, Grace, Miguel, Mark, Matthew and Nenette

Underneath the bridge is the Maiko Marine Promenade, a viewing facility built in the bridge girder, approximately 47 m. above the sea and 150 m. above the ground, that offers fantastic views of the Seto Inland Sea and Akashi Strait.  An approximately 317 m. long, circuit-style promenade on the Akashi-Kaikyo Bridge opened on April 5, 1998, it was constructed on the Kobe side of the bridge as an additional facility. Information materials and a DVD system that explain the bridge are available on the first floor of the promenade. There is an observation camera system which makes you feel like you’re on top of the bridge’s 300-m. high main tower. At the observation lounge, on the 8th floor, you can try an additional thrill – the “log-bridge 47 meters above the sea.”

Akashi Kaikyo Bridge

You can also see and visit three historical buildings.  Other Japanese residences, in Osaka and Kobe, have been gradually disappearing since the Hanshin/Awaji Great Earthquake. The Former Residence of Sanji Muto was built in 1907, during the Meiji period, at Maiko Beach, by businessman (he was president of the Kanebo textile company), journalist and politician (he was an active member of the House of Representatives) Muto Sanji.

After Muto was murdered in 1934 (as part of the fallout of the Teijin Incident), it was used by Kanegabuchi Boseki Co., Ltd. as its social welfare facility, and was called the Kanebo Maiko Club (also known as the Old Kanebo Maiko Club).  However, for the expansion work of National Route 2, it was taken down, in conjunction with the construction of the Akashi-Kaikyo Bridge, and the Western-style building was relocated to Kariguchidai, Tarumi-ku.

Former Residence of Sanji Muto

In 2007, Kanebo Co., Ltd. donated the building and furnishings to Hyogo Prefecture and, that same year, the prefecture started relocation/restoration work to move the building back to Maiko Park, its original location. In July 2011, it was registered as a National Tangible Cultural Property. Now a new tourist attraction representing Maiko Park, visitors can enjoy the scenery, from this Western-style seaside cottage, of the Akashi Strait and the pine forest. Inside, it features preserved Meiji-period furniture and stained glass.

The Former Japanese Residence of the Kinoshita Family is an early modern Japanese home built in the tea ceremony arbor (sukiyazukuri) style. Originally completed as a private residence, in 1941, for a man named Ryosuke Matano, it came into Mr. Kichizaemon Kinoshita’s possession in 1952 and, in 2000, the bereaved family of the late Mr. Kichijiro Kinoshita donated it to Hyogo Prefecture. In December 2001, as it has almost completely retained its appearance since its establishment, it was registered as a National Tangible Cultural Property.

Sun Yat-Sen Memorial Hall (Ijokaku)

The iconic Sun Yat-Sen Memorial Hall (Ijokaku), built in 1915 by Wu Jintang (1855-1926), a prosperous Chinese merchant in Kobe, is a cottage with a three-storey octagonal tower (added, as an annex, in 1915) that was shown to the public, in 1984, as Sonchuzan Memorial Hall. It exhibits information materials related to Chinese revolutionary and first president of the Republic of China Sun Yat-sen who was honored with a dinner, hosted by the local Chinese business community, in 1913. On December 10, 1993, tt was registered as a Prefectural Important Tangible Cultural Property and, on November 14, 2001, as a National Important Tangible Cultural Property.

The author, Jandy and Grace

Nearby is monument “Dream Lens,” an iconic photo spot created by a sculptor Keizo Ushio.  It was installed to commemorate the 5th anniversary of the foundation of the Akashi-Kaikyo Bridge, the embodiment of half a century of technology. The Moebius strip, made of rock with three different types of surface, represents people, nature, and science as well as the main island of Japan, Awaji Island, and Shikoku, which are connected by the Akashi-Kaikyo Bridge. These three layers harmonize well, expressing hope for development in the future.

Dream Lens (Keiso Ushio)

Hyogo Prefectural Maiko Park: 4-2051 Higashimaikocho, Tarumi-ku, Kobe, Hyogo 655-0047, Japan.  Tel: +81 78-785-5090.

How to Get There: The closest train stations to Maiko Park and the Akashi Kaikyo Bridge are Maiko Station on the JR Sanyo Line and Maikokoen Station on the Sanyo Electric Railway, both just a few hundred meters from the park. The journey is 35 to 45 minutes from Himeji, or 25 minutes from Sannomiya Station in Kobe.

Meriken Park (Kobe, Japan)

Meriken Park

Our third whole day in Japan was spent on a day tour of Kobe which was just a 37.1-km. (40-min. drive) from Osaka.  Our first stopover was at Meriken Park, a nice waterfront park located in Kobe’s port area.  The park’s name was derived from the word “American,” which was commonly translated as “Meriken” during the Meiji era. Upon arrival, we first had breakfast at a stylish, 2-storey Starbucks outlet, with its ship-inspired design. Opened in 2017, it featured hishibuki (traditional diamond-patterned metal plates meant to evoke the feeling of a ship’s cabin) and offered stunning waterfront views of Kobe Harbor from its large glass walls and second floor outdoor balcony.

Beside the Starbucks store is the Bell of Hortensia, a colorful, modern mosaic sculpture. Installed on June 19, 1990, it represents the Hydrangea macrophylla, Kobe’s official flower.  It was established to commemorate the opening of the first Kobe Fashion Festival in November 1989, which was part of the World Fashion Festival ’89. When it was first installed at the “symbol monument of the fashion city of Kobe,” the bell was rung but, after the Great Hanshin earthquake, which devastated the park, it has not been rung.

Bell of Hortensia
Kobe Maritime Museum

Built on an outcropping of reclaimed land, this waterfront park, a popular spot for locals and tourists, is covered in grassy lawn and open courtyards and is dotted with a collection of modern art installations and fountains. Meriken Park, the location of the Hotel Okura Kobe, Sannomiya Ferry Terminal (where the Jumbo Ferry, connecting Kobe, Shodoshima, and Takamatsu, and the Miyazaki Car Ferry, departs and arrives) and the wave-shaped Kobe Meriken Park Oriental Hotel, is home to some of the city’s more iconic contemporary architecture such as the red Kobe Port Tower and Kobe Maritime Museum.

Kobe Meriken Park Oriental Hotel

To the west of the Maritime Museum stands the 108 m. (354 ft.) high Kobe Port Tower, a unique, red-painted steel structure completed in 1963, was designed by the Nikken Sekkei Company to look like a tsuzumi, a Japanese drum. A symbol of the port and the city, it is the first tower built using a pipe lattice.  The tower has a total of 8 layers and is surrounded by 32 red steel staves as a symbol of welcome for vessels returning to the shore. It has five observation decks, approximately 100 m. above ground, including an open-air rooftop deck and a revolving cafe and bar.

Port of Kobe Tower

The “Be Kobe” Monument, installed in 2017 to commemorate the 150th anniversary of the opening of Kobe Port, is a popular photo spot.  The phrase “Be Kobe,” introduce in 2015 (the 20th anniversary of the Great Hanshin earthquake), is a civic pride message that expresses the idea that the chrm of Kobe lies in its people, inspired by those who work hard for the city’s recovery.

Be Kobe Sign

Kobe Port was once Japan’s most important departure point for overseas immigrants and the famous Kobe Port Emigrants Memorial Statue (also known as “Set Sail for Hope” or “Memorial Statue of Emigrants Boarding the Emigrant Ship”) honors the thousands of Japanese citizens who emigrated from Kobe Port, for new lives abroad, particularly to Brazil, in the early 20th century.

Kobe Port Emigrants Memorial Statue

Erected in 2001, it also serves as a reminder of the “National Kobe Emigrant Camp” history, where families awaited ships to travel abroad.  This bronze monument, erected in 2001, features a family (two adults and a child gazing out at the sea), symbolizing the departure.  The main statue is titled “Hope’s Departure.” The statue is seen as a bridge connecting Japan and the destination countries of immigrants, symbolizing international exchange and pioneering spirit.

Meriken Theatre Monument

The unique Meriken Theatre Monument, erected in 1987, commemorates Kobe as the location of the first public movie screening in Japan.  A popular photo spot, it was designed to look like a cinema screen and theatre seats. 

Kobe Kaientai Monument

The Kobe Kaientai Monument, a notable abstract sculpture, commemorates the Kobe Kaientai, a historical naval group active at the end of the Edo Period.

Save Northern People (Kaneichi Futakuchi)

“Save Northern People,” a notable abstract, human-shaped bronze sculpture created by sculptor Kaneichi Futakuchi, was a winner of the Port of Kobe Anniversary Commemorative Award.  It is often interpreted as a tribute to those who left Kobe in search of a better life far away.

Sannomiya Ferry Terminal
A ship docked at the harbor

Meriken Park: 2 Hatobacho, Chuo-ku, Kobe-shi, Hyogo-ken, 650-0042.

How to Get There: Meriken Park is about a 10-minute walk south of Motomachi Station, on the JR Kobe Line, or just across the sightseeing cruise terminal from Kobe Harborland.

Dotonbori District (Osaka, Japan)

Dotonbori District

The 4-star Candeo Hotels Osaka Shinsaibashi, the hotel that we stayed in, happened to be just 250 m. from Dōtonbori District, the vibrant, popular, neon-lit entertainment and dining district of Osaka for visitors to the city, boasting of a number of well-known restaurants offering a range of traditional and modern Japanese dishes.  Known as one of Osaka’s principal tourist and nightlife areas, the area runs along the Dōtonbori Canal, from Dōtonboribashi Bridge to Nipponbashi Bridge in the Namba district of the city’s Chūō Ward.

Check out “Hotel and Inn Review:  Candeo Hotels Osaka Shinsaibashi

Shinsaibashi Shopping Mall

Dōtonbori traces its history back to 1612, when merchant Nariyasu Dōton, the administrator of local canals, joined by Yasui Jihē, Yasui Kuhē, and Hirano Tōjirō, began construction of the canal on the southern edge of Osaka, aiming to increase commerce by widening the river.

View towards Shinsaibashi Shopping Mall

To get there, we passed through the huge tunnel of the Shinsaibashi shopping mall. We then proceeded to the main gathering spot, often called “Hina-dan,” which offers the best views of the iconic signs. Here, we encountered Kim Jong Un lookalike Howard X (Howard (X) Lee), a well-known professional Australian-Chinese impersonator and political activist.  Considered the world’s first professional Kim Jong Un impersonator, he is frequently spotted in Dotonbori and other Japan locations, holding a toy missile and attracting large crowds.

Kim Jong Un impersonator Howard X

When taking photos with crowds, he often appears in costume and is sometimes paired with Donald Trump impersonators, notably around major events like the 2019 G20 Summit in Osaka. Creating satirical scenes to promote democracy, his appearance sometimes leads to deportation or detention due to political sensitivities. To provoke reactions from North Korean delegations beyond Japan, he has appeared at the PyeongChang Olympics and the Paris Olympics and has a significant presence on social media platforms such as Instagram. 

View from Midosuji Avenue

Evenings are the best times to experience the dazzling, futuristic neon cityscape reflected on the canal.  Here, you can also take a Dotonbori Canal Cruise or city cruise, to see the neon lights from the water, or visit the massive Don Quijote store by the canal.  Though now mostly a dining and nightlife area, the Theater District is historically known as a hub for Kabuki and Bunraku puppet theaters. 

Dotonbori Canal

Centered along the Dotonbori Canal, Dōtonbori (bori from hori, meaning “canal”) is famous for its eccentric atmosphere and extravagant signage (including the iconic Glico Running Man Sign and the massive. 6.5 m. long moving crab sign at Kani Dōraku) and is a top tourist spot for nightlife, shopping, popular spots including Ichiran, and various street food stalls selling takoyaki (octopus balls), kitsune udon and ramen. 

Check out the “Glico Running Man Sign

The author and Grace with the Glico Running Man Sign in the background

Dotonbori is considered as the city’s food capital or kuidaore, a Japanese word meaning to “ruin oneself or go bankrupt by extravagant spending on food” or, more pithily, “eat until you drop.” It is part of a larger proverb: “Ruin yourself with fashions in Kyoto, ruin yourself with meals in Osaka,” reflecting local priorities (and artistry) in the clothing and food of Kyoto and Osaka, respectively.  This phrase, associated with Dōtonbori, is often used in tourist guides and advertisements.

Rows of restaurants at Dotonbori District

On our first night in Osaka, we decided to dine at Botejyu (founded in 1946), located at the second floor of the Comrade Doton Building.   We waited in line for several minutes before finally being seated.  The menu and ordering are accessed on your smartphone via a QR code. 

Botejyu Restaurant

Here, we tried out, among other dishes, the okonomiyaki, a savory Japanese pancake consisting of wheat flour batter and other ingredients (shredded cabbage, eggs, meat, etc.). This specialty’s classic mayonnaise ingredient was developed by Botejyu. 

Ganko Sushi

On another evening, we tried out Ganko Sushi (since 1963) and Torikizoku (a popular, affordable yakitori chain. The latter is located at the Kuidaore Building, in front of which is Kuidaore Taro (also known as the Kuidaore Ningyo), a mechanical drum-playing clown, installed in 1950 as a mascot for the now closed Kuidaore Taro Restaurant which moved to a new location slightly east of his old haunt. Every March the visiting rikishi for the Osaka Grand Sumo tournament used to line up with Kuidaore Taro for photos.

L-R: Jandy, Miguel, Matthew, Nenette, Mark, the author and Grace at Torikizoku Restaurant
The mechanical, drum playing clown Kuidaore Taro

How to Get There: Located in the Minami district, Dotonbori, adjacent to the Shinsaibashi-suji shopping street, is easily accessible near Namba Station.

Glico Running Man Sign (Osaka, Japan)

They say that any visit to Osaka is never complete without a photo-op with the Glico Running Man Sign, one of the most well-known and recognized landmarks in Osaka, in the background.  This iconic, huge, brightly lit neon/LED billboard, located in Osaka’s Dotonbori district, has glowed over the Dotombori Canal in Osaka‘s premier shopping and entertainment district for more than 90 years now. 

Check out “Dotonbori District

Glico Running Man Sign

It shows a runner, against a blue track with Osaka landmarks, reportedly inspired, in part, by the winning form of Fortunato Catalon, an early 20th century Filipino champion sprinter, from Tolosa, Leyte, known in the 1910s and 1920s, as “Asia’s Fastest Man,” in the 100-yard and 220-yard dashes during the 1917 Far Eastern Games held in Tokyo, as well as Japanese marathoner Shizu Kanaguri. It was first installed in 1935 by Ezaki Glico (manufacturer of one of Asia’s most famous confectioneries) company founder Ri-ichi Ezaki, to represent his energy-boosting caramel Glico candy that, according to lore (the Japanese love a backstory), could give you “enough energy to run 300 meters.” This energy product was created in 1922 by adding glycogen from oysters to the snack and, to this day, this running man has been used as the company’s mascot and logo.

Ezaki Glico’s most popular product is Pocky, confectionery-coated pretzel sticks, which comes in a number of tasty flavors, very popular in Japan and abroad (it is known as Mikado in some parts of the world). Glico’s other confectionery products include Pretz, Caplico, Bisco and Karujaga. Glico also makes ice-cream products and a few processed foods and curry roux blocks.  Glico has a museum, at their Osaka headquarters, featuring all sorts of nostalgic packaging and a collection of the free toys that are given away with each box. Currently on display, part of a special exhibition, is a selection of diorama’s of Dotombori and the Running Man billboard.

The sign, which now serves as a symbol of perseverance, energy, health, victory and the spirit of Osaka, has had several overhauls. Since 1972, the huge neon has shown the Running Man on a running track. In 1998,  some of Osaka‘s best-known landmarks, such as Osaka Castle and the Tsutenkaku Tower, were added to the background.  The previous five versions were all neon. The 2014 LED version follows a similar theme, with the landmarks taking a more dynamic role.

The author

Also, through the years, it has been occasionally altered to support the mighty Hanshin Tigers, Osaka’s baseball team (when Japan hosted the Soccer World Cup), and to celebrate various sporting triumphs or celebratory images, such as in 2020, to celebrate Takuma Sato and his second Indy 500 victory (the sign changed every 15 minutes to an image of Sato performing the “Glico Man Pose”).  The current 6th generation sign, installed in October 2014, is the first to use the new high-resolution LED technology which allows even more special events celebrated via the huge billboard.  It is 20 m. high, 10.38 m. wide and is illuminated from sunset until 12 midnight.

Jandy

A popular meeting place and spot to take photos, here visitors, both local and foreign, often mimic the runner’s pose (arms raised, one leg up). For the best experience, visit during the week or earlier in the day, though the sign is truly spectacular at night when the bridge is jam packed, especially at weekends, with people entering the Dotombori entertainment area.  A central point for shopping and food in Dotonbori, the area around the sign is crowded, with other bright, large signs.

Just east of the Glico Man billboard is Ebisubashi, originally constructed to provide access to the nearby Ebisu Shrine.  The bridge, more practically, provides a link between the Shinsaibashi-suji and Ebisubashi-suji shopping districts.  The bridge is also the location of a legendary curse, on Osaka’s baseball team, the Hanshin Tigers, which was considered broken in 2023.

Ebisubashi also makes for a convenient gathering point, due to the familiarity of the Glico Man, hence its nicknames, nanpa-bashi (mostly used by foreigners) and hikkake-bashi (“the pulling bridge”), mostly used by native Japanese.

Glico Running Man Sign: 1 Chrome-10-4Dotonbori Sistrict, Chuo Ward, 542-0071 Osaka.  Tel: +81 120-917-111.

How to Get There: The sign is located at the South bank of the Dotonbori Canal, near Ebisubashi Bridge.

Mitsutera Temple (Osaka, Japan)

Mitsutera Temple

Japan is known for being a heady mix of the old and new, and this is perhaps best exemplified by the way some of its high-rise blocks are carefully built around, or integrated with, ancient temples.  One such example is the ancient, charming Mitsutera Temple, known affectionately as Mittera-san by local residents.  Located along bustling Midosuji Avenue, a major artery in the center of Osaka, its main hall, dating back to the early 1800s, has been neatly embedded at the base of the large, 15-storey, 180-room Candeo Hotels Osaka Shinsaibashi, in the city’s Chuo Ward. The first few floors are atrium-style to provide ample space for the hall.

Check out “Hotel and Inn Review: Candeo Hotels Osaka Shinsaibashi

Entrance to hotel and temple

Mitsutera Temple, founded in the Nara Period (710-784) by the renowned monk Gyōki (one of 49 temples established by him during this period) to serve as a burial site for Emperor Ojin (Japan’s 15th emperor), on the orders of Japan’s 45th emperor, is a member of the Omuro school of the Shingon sect of Buddhism headquartered at Ninnaji temple in Kyoto. After it burned down in the late Edo Period (1603-1867), the current main hall was rebuilt in 1808 and, in 1945, remarkably survived the Great Osaka Air Raid unlike many other wooden structures in the city.

View of temple from Midosuji’s sidewalk
Temple bell (bonsho or tsurigane)

A decline in parishioner numbers and an increasing demand for simplified funerals have made it difficult for the temple to financially survive.  In a rare partnership and an attempt to pass down the temple to posterity, Mitsutera temple entered into a fixed-term land leasehold agreement, of 50 years, with Candeo Hotels Osaka Shinsaibashi wherein Mitsutera will tap into the rent to cover expenses, such as repairs to the main hall and altar fittings.  The construction project was undertaken jointly by Mitsutera and Tokyo Tatemono Co., a property developer based in Tokyo’s Chuo Ward.

The 11-faced statue of the Kanzeon Bodhisattva

From 2020 to 2023, it was physically merged and incorporated into the hotel, which was built directly above the temple. The entire main hall structure was jacked up and, to facilitate the new construction, relocated within the site and moved in one piece to sit alongside Midosuji’s sidewalk, allowing the tower block to be constructed behind and around it. On November 26, 2023, the temple’s main hall was opened there, creating a unique blend of traditional architecture and modern development.

For the aging temple, this creative solution preserved the history and architecture of this centuries-old temple, allowing hotel guests a special experience of staying almost at a temple, participating in religious practices, including morning prayers, eshakyo (transcription of sutra and Buddha images) and meditation. The main hall is within the first three floors.

Mitsutera Temple houses precious Buddhist statues and paintings that Osaka City designates as cultural properties. Decorated in lacquer, gold leaf, and flower petals, the main hall’s center is dominated by an 11-faced statue of the Kanzeon Bodhisattva, with eight other Buddhist statues (including figures such as the Buddhas Yakushi Nyorai and Kobo Daishi, among others) arrayed to the sides. 

This temple offers a black and white goshuin where you need to trace the lines and words color the picture and write your own wish. After that, they will help to stamp the special ink on the completed goshuin. Today, it is a pleasant experience to stroll in the area as the aroma of incense floats next to the fragrance of perfume from the boutiques of high fashion brands which line Midosuji.

Kannon Sacred Lottery (Omikuji) – fortune-telling paper slips found offering guidance on aspects like love, health, and work

Mitsutera Temple: corner of Midosuji Avenue and Mitsudera-suji Sts., 2 Chome-7-12 Shinsaibashisuji, Chuo Ward, Osaka, 542-0085, Japan. Tel: +81 6-6211-1982.

How to Get There: Mitsutera Temple, located near Shinsaibashi-suji and Dotonbori, conveniently situated within walking distance from both Namba Station and Shinsaibashi stations on the Osaka Metro Midosuji Line.

Arch of the Centuries (University of Santo Tomas, Manila)

The Baroque-style Arch of the Centuries, the arched gate at Plaza Intramuros, University of Santo Tomas (UST), is a landmark which symbolizes UST’s role as a “gateway in history to the finest breed of Filipinos.”  It is one of the few relics left from original UST campus in the walled city of Intramuros which was destroyed in 1945 during the Battle of Manila in World War II, leaving the 17th-century campus completely destroyed.  This arch door, called Puerta del Colegio, faced the first Benavides Statue, which was located at Calle Postigo and Calle de Santo Tomas.

The Arch of the Centuries

In 1927, the university transferred here at its present Sampaloc site and the central lower section of the original facade of the first campus in Intramuros (the side facing the UST Main Building), built in 1680, was dismantle, piece by piece, in 1953, under orders of UST rector Jesus Castañon, by Carmelo Flavier Pablo of C.F. Pablo and Son, a precast contractor, and transferred to the present campus, taking a year to complete.  Carmelo Flavier Pablo also did the other half of the current structure (the side facing España Boulevard), a replica of the arch door inaugurated in 1954, as well as the statues, and the bas-relief panels. The arch became formally known as the Arch of the Centuries.

The original facade

On January 25, 2010, , along with the UST Main Building, the UST Central Seminary Building, and the university field, it was declared a National Cultural Treasure by the National Museum of the Philippines. On January 18, 2015, during his visit to the university, Pope Francis passed through the arch.

Check out “UST Main Building

One of the cultural icons of the University of Santo Tomas, it is often the site of important campus events such as the Thomasian Welcome Walk, UST’s tradition of welcoming the freshmen to the university by passing through the arch. The passing through also signifies the completion of their student life in the university when, after the baccalaureate Mass, the candidates for graduation exit through the arch during a parade.  There is an urban legend that claims prematurely exiting the arch, before graduation, would lead to a student’s debarment.

Jose Rizal commemorative plaque

Commemorative plaques, on its lower pillars, facing España Boulevard, honors two distinguished alumni, Philippine President Manuel L. Quezon (1878-1944), on the right and  José Rizal (1861-1896), on the left. The bronze marker, on the side of the left pier, tells the history of the arch. The words underneath it read, Gateway to the history of the finest breed of Filipinos, a reference to the UST alumni.

Manuel L. Quezon commemorative plaque

The statue of Thomas Aquinas, above the attic storey, portrayed as a young and energetic man seated on a chair (a depiction similar to the painting by Justus van Gent and Pedro Berruguete), was inaugurated on December 21, 1955. Flanking it are two female figures, the one facing west holding a cross, in her right hand, and an admiralty pattern anchor in her left hand while the one facing east holds a torch, in her left hand, while her right arm rests on a winged wheel.

Fountain of Divine Wisdom

These two figures correspond to the Fountain of Divine Wisdom (also called the Fountain of Divine Wisdom) and the Fountain of Human Wisdom (Fountain of Knowledge) that flank the arch. The Fountain of Wisdom, surrounded by four deer and open shells, consists of a barbed, quatrefoil-shaped basin featuring a sculpture of a lady standing on top of a lotus flower (its bowl carried by four phoenixes) while holding a Bible who’s cover depicts the image of the Lamb of God.   The Fountain of Knowledge, surrounded by four owls of Athena and open shells, also features a sculpture of a lady (standing on a cylindrical pedestal adorned by the early disciplines offered in the university) on top of a lotus flower (its bowl carried by four sphinxes) while holding a globe.

Fountain of Knowledge

The main inscription, directly above the arch, is different on both sides. Four bas-relief panels, depicting the life of Thomas Aquinas, flank the main inscriptions.  The southwest panel depicts two angels giving him the girdle of chastity; the southeast panel depicts Thomas Aquinas speaking to an icon of the crucified Christ; the northeast panel depicts Thomas Aquinas and the Eucharist; and the northwest panel depicts Thomas Aquinas taught by Saints Peter and Paul.

Bronze plaque that tells the history of the arch

A coat of arms, below the main inscription, features a double-headed eagle similar to the one used by Charles I, the King of Spain when the Philippines was discovered. The main façade consists of two columns, of the Doric order, on each side of the archway and the spandrels  consists of Baroque reliefs.

Arch of the Centuries: Plaza Intramuros, University of Santo Tomas, Manila.

UST Main Building (University of Santo Tomas, Manila)

University of Santo Tomas Main Building

The  majestic, 4-storey, Renaissance Revival-style Main Building of the University of Santo Tomas (UST), functioning as the university’s administrative center, is home of the Faculty of Civil LawFaculty of Pharmacy, the College of Science and the Museum of Arts and Sciences. Designed by Fr. Roque RuañoO.P., this building, influenced by Frank Lloyd Wright‘s Imperial Hotel, Tokyo (which survived the Great Kantō earthquake of September 1, 1923 which flattened Tokyo and Yokohama), is the first earthquake-resistant building in the Philippines.

The author with the Main Building in the background

Construction of the building began on 1924 and, before it inauguration on November 12, 1927, the first classes were held there on July 2, 1927. Since then, it has been the focal point of the campus and all succeeding structures revolved around the Main Building.

Historical Research and Markers Committee plaque (1935)

Starting on January 4, 1942, during World War II, the Japanese converted the university into the Santo Tomas Internment Camp for Americans and other non-Filipinos, the internees occupying three floors of the building (465 died there from hunger and malnutrition). On February 3, 1945, during the Battle for Manila the university and its around 4,000 Allied POWs and civilian internees were liberated by the 1st Cavalry Division, tanks from the 44th Tank Battalion and Filipino guerrillas led by Capt. Manuel Colayco (a UST faculty member who died securing the place), the first building in Manila to be liberated.  After the war, UST resumed operation, holding classes in the building.

National Historical Commission plaque (2012)

The university and the building was visited by three popes: Pope Paul VI on November 28, 1970, Pope John Paul II on February 18, 1981 and January 13, 1995 (when UST hosted World Youth Day 1995) and Pope Francis on January 18, 2015 (though he did not enter the building). Queen Sofia of Spain also visited the building on July 6, 2012. On January 25, 2010, the National Museum of the Philippines declared it as a National Cultural Treasure.

Pope Paul IV Papal Visit Plaque

This 86 m. long, 74 m. wide and 51.5 m. (169 ft.) high, rectangular structure, with two patios  (interior courtyards), is actually made up of 40 separate structures independent from one another, with the only opportunity provided by pre-cast stab flooring. There are four corner units, two midsection units (rear and front entrance), one tower (including two elevator cores) and one entrance canopy.  Another 26 units consists of seven units for the Padre Noval Street side, seven units for the Arsenio H. Lacson Avenue (formerly Gov. Forbes) side, six units for the Dapitan Street side, six units for the España Boulevard side, four for the middle section (or paraninfo) and two stair sections adjacent to the tower and elevator core.

Tria Haec

Statues, standing on the pedestals on the fourth floor of the building, symbolize the spiritual and intellectual aspiration of the university. Designed by Italian sculptor Francesco Riccardo Monti, a faculty member of the College of Architecture, they were installed between 1949 and 1953.  The so-called “Tria Haec” (Latin for “These Three”), surrounding the clock, are three statues representing Hope (Spe), Faith (Fides, on top of the clock) and Love (Caritas).

Grand Staircase

To the right of the “Tria Haec” are theologians and historians such as St. Augustine, St. Raymond of Peñafort and Vincent of Beauvais (Dominican monk and writer of Speculum Maius). To their right, facing Padre Noval Street, are the tragedians Pedro Calderón de la Barca, Sophocles and William Shakespeare, while to the left are the philosophers Aristotle, Saint Albert the Great and Plato.  To the left of the philosophers, facing Arsenio Lacson Avenue, are the playwrights Lope de Vega, Aristophanes and Molière.

First two panels of History of the University of Santo Tomas Mural (Antonio Garcia Llamas)
Third and fourth panel of History of the University of Santo Tomas Mural (Antonio Garcia Llamas)

At the ground floor lobby is the four-panel mural “The History of the University of Santo Tomas,” painted by Antonio Garcia Llamas between 1952 and 1954.  It depicts significant milestones of the university including its declaration as a Pontifical University on September 17, 1902 by Pope Leo XIII and the advent of co-education.  At the second floor staircase are paintings by Filipino masters Galo Ocampo and Carlos “Botong” Francisco.

The Foundation of the University of Santo Tomas by Archbishop Benavides (Domingo Celis)

Main Building: University of Santo Tomas (UST), EspañaSampaloc, Manila. Coordinates: 14°36′37″N 120°59′21″E.