Nonomiya Shrine (Kyoto, Japan)

Nonomiya Shrine

Upon arrival at the Arashiyama Bamboo Forest, a short walk brought us to Nonomiya Shrine (Shrine of the Country), a small Shinto shrine  and a quaint stop along the Sagano walking path, surrounded on all sides by the chikurin, Arashiyama’s beautiful and gorgeous bamboo forest, that takes visitors up into the foothills of Arashiyama.  Brushwood fencing (koshibagaki) made from spicebush, found along the paths through the bamboo forest, surrounds the shrine, adding a bit of charm to its rustic touch.

Check out “Arashima Bamboo Forest

Though the precincts, as well as shrine buildings, are small, the shrine has a lengthy history as a purification shrine, in ancient Japan, for unmarried imperial princesses and empresses, called saiō, were appointed, as priestesses, to bring offerings to the gods on behalf of the emperor and, in preparation for their journey to Ise ShrineMie Prefecture, would undergo a purification ritual, for a year, at Nonomiya Shrine. To become saiō, the young girls selected averaged between 10 and 13 years of age. However, some could be chosen from as young as 2 years, to as old as 28 years at the oldest. This custom lasted from around the year 673 to 660 (during the reign of Emperor Gagaigo), in which 64 saiō were chosen.

Nonomiya Shrine also appears in Sakaki chapter of the classic 11th century Heian period novel Tale of Genji of Murasaki Shikibu, believed to be the oldest novel in the world, when the princess Lady Rokuyo no Yasusho is selected as a saiō and undergoes purification at Nonomiya Shrine. The parting scene between her and her lover Prince Hikaru Genji, the main character, is also set in the shrine.

The black torii

When most people think of torii gates, they would probably imagine the more iconic, bright, lacquered vermilion torii gates but Nonomiya Shrine has a somewhat unusual black torii gate, made to resemble unstripped timber, referred to as kuroki (unbarked sawtooth oak log) once used to build torii all over Japan but a practice that gradually disappeared due to the difficulty of obtaining and preserving the raw timber. Today, this gate is the only kuroki torii left in Japan.  This style of gate harkens back to the oldest style of Shinto torii that would have been erected in the past, blending in so perfectly with the surrounding nature, the authentic atmosphere that makes you feel as if you’ve stepped back in time.

Omamori Amulets

Nonomiya Shrine is comprised of a small main altar as well as several sub-shrines.  Many parishioners of Nonomiya Shrine are women who want to find love, wish for children or have a safe childbirth as it has a reputation for helping and interceding on behalf of women.  The shrine sells omamori amulets (enmusubi for a good relationship, kosazuke for conception of a child, anzan for an easy birth, etc.), found in various colors and designs, that reflect the theme of women’s happiness, and a variety of amulets are available at the shrine office to the right of the entrance.  

Ema (wooden votive tablets)

Others buy (for 1,000 yen each) ema (wooden votive tablets) where they can write, on the blank back side, their wish or prayers for a happy romance, before hanging it up on the kakedokoro (place for hanging plaques). They should also write down their name (if they don’t want to write their full name, initials are okay) and the date of their visit. They can also bring the plaque back with them if they want. Another fun thing to do at a shrine is to draw an omikuji (fortune slip) and Nonomiya Shrine has an omikuji box for this. Put a 100 yen coin into the slot at the top, and draw an omikuji slip from the bottom. 

kakedokoro (place for hanging plaques) and vat for misogibarai ritual

For those with worries on their mind, they can try misogibarai, a ritual where they purifying sin and impurities by releasing them in water. This is done at the place on the left side of the shrine.

Shrine to Shirafuku Inari Daimyojin

Shirafuku Inari Daimyōjin, the deity to pray to bless couples with children, easy labor and safe childbirth, and prosperous business, specifically enshrined in the first shrine you see after going through the vermilion torii, on the right of the entrance.

Shrine dedicated to Oyama Benzaiten, the deity of safe driving

Behind the Shirafuku Inari Daimyojin shrine is yet another shrine, this one dedicated to Oyama Benzaiten, the deity of safe driving. Also enshrined here is Nonomiya Okami (also known as Amaterasu Okami), the deity said to grant health and wisdom.

Kame Ishi (Turtle Rock)

To the left of the main hall is an altar, marked with masks, dedicated to Daikokuten, another lucky god. To the left of the Daikokuten shrine is a large, unique and peculiarly turtle-shaped stone called the Kame Ishi (Turtle Rock), or, alternatively, the Kami Ishi (Divine Rock). Said to enshrine Nonomiya Daikokuten, the god of marriage, it is said that, if you rub or touch this stone, while chanting your wish for a happy marriage or praying over it, your wish will be granted within a year. 

The carpet moss garden with the tiny bridge in the background

A pleasant and lovely little (66 square meters or 20 tsubo) garden, to the right of the main hall, a place of both simplicity and abundance.  It brims with a lush carpet of moss.  Said to be the richest and most beautiful in Kyoto, the moss appears even more lively after the rain.  A dip, between two small “hills” on the ground, is spanned by a tiny bridge, making it appear as a larger landscape represented in miniature. To the far left is Togetsukyo Bridge, a wooden bridge in the center of the city, that is a symbol of Arashiyama.

Two sub-shrines, alongside the garden, are marked with vermilion torii gates and lanterns.  One shrine is dedicated to Atago (a deity associated with a nearby mountain who is believed to deal with matters relating to fire and victory) and the other to Benzaiten (a goddess of luck and the arts) and Inari (a deity associated with business and agricultural success). 

Nonomiya Shrine: Saganonomiyacho, Ukyo-ku, Kyoto-shi, Kyoto, 616-8315. Tel: 075-871-1972. Fax: 075-871-0796. Open daily, 9 AM to 5 PM. Admission is free.

How to Get There: The nearest station is Arisugawa Station of Keifuku Dentetsu-Arashiyama Line, a 10-minute walk away.

Arashiyama Bamboo Forest (Kyoto, Japan)

Arashiyama Bamboo Forest

On our last full day in Japan, we were to do a whole day tour Kyoto. Our first destination was the stunning Arashiyama Bamboo Forest which was 61.6-km. (over an hour’s drive) from our hotel. Also called the Sangano Bamboo Grove, is a 16 sq. km. (6.2 sq. mi.), natural bamboo forest  consisting mostly of mōsō bamboo (Phyllostachys edulis).

Brushwood fencing (koshibagaki)

Upon arrival, we made stops at the small Nonomiya Shrine and the Sogenchi Garden of the famous Tenryū-ji Temple. Brushwood fencing (koshibagaki), made from spicebush, are found along the paths through the bamboo forest.

Check out “Nonomiya Shrine” and “Sogenchi Garden”

Nonomiya Shrine

The towering bamboo forest is an almost shocking contrast to the urbanity surrounding it. Growing tall on the edges of Kyoto, the Arashiyama Bamboo Forest, a once tranquil nature spot, is now a series of tourist-packed wooden pathways that weave through the dense thicket of tall bamboo stalks that reach dozens of feet into the sky, creating a canopy.

Sogenchi Garden in Tenryu-ji Temple

However, if you can escape the sounds of camera shutters and boorish visitors, you can still hear the rustling of the leaves; bending, creaking, and swaying of the wood and trunks knocking together as the wind passes through the tightly packed plants, creating a peaceful sound like almost nothing else.

If you can find a time to visit the bamboo forest, when it is relatively empty, the combination of visual beauty and auditory calm can be one of a kind. There is no word, however, on how the place smells.

The author and Grace

When the hordes of tourists aren’t drowning it out, the meditative natural noise is so lovely. In fact, Japan’s Ministry of the Environment has designated the location’s aural pleasures as one of the country’s governmentally-recognized “100 Soundscapes  of Japan,” an initiative designed to encourage the local population to get out and appreciate the country’s acoustic wonders.

Adashino Nenbutsu-ji Temple

Along the way, we also passed by the Adashino Nenbutsu-ji Temple, a historic burial ground featuring over 8,000 stone statues (rakan) and monuments, representing forgotten or lost souls, surrounded by a peaceful, less crowded bamboo forest. 

Sagano Scenic Railway

At the end of the forest, we also came across the stunning station of the Sagano Scenic Railway (also dubbed the “Sagano Romantic Train”), a retro-style steam train, with open-air carriages, which takes passengers on a 7.3-km./25-min. journey along the scenic Huzu River Gorge.  

Jinrikisha (Japanese Rickshaw)

Along exclusive, quieter pathways (closed to general pedestrians), we saw passengers on board jinrikishas (Japanese rickshaws) pulled by personal guides, a luxurious, crowd-dodging alternative to walking.

North of Arashiyama is the quirky, small but serene Mikami-jinja Shrine, a highly specialized landmark tucked away near the Sagano area. Built in 1961 by a Kyoto barber, it is the only shrine in Japan dedicated specifically to hair styling, beauty (cosmetics, hair washes, hair growth products, wigs, etc.) and hair health. It is dedicated to Fujiwara Uneme no Suke Masayuki, a historical Kamakura-period (1192 – 1333) hairdresser credited as the founder of the barbering profession in Japan. Their ema (wooden votive tablets) and charms are designed in the shape of a comb.

Mikami Shrine

A highly popular stop for those in the beauty industry or anyone seeking remedies for hair loss and damage, visitors here can opt to have a small lock of hair cut by a priest and offered in a special bag at the shrine’s “hair mound” to pray for hair health. In front of the shrine is Ogura Pond which is famous for its lotus flowers.

Cherry blossoms in bloom along the Ogura-ike Pond

We got a welcome respite from the crowds of the nearby Bamboo Forest by making a left at the T-junction at the top of the hill and soon find ourselves at Kamayama-keon Park. As we arrived during the sakura (cherry blossom) period (late March and early April), the trees were in full bloom. Too bad we couldn’t make our way uphill and to the west as we could’ve seen some fine views down to the Hozu-gawa River and across Kyoto. Troops of wild monkeys are said to occasionally patrol the park.

Kamayama-keon Park

Arashiyama Bamboo Forest: Sagaogurayama Tabuchiyamacho, Ukyo Ward, Arashiyama District, Kyoto, 616-8394 Japan. Tel: +81 75-343-0548. Prior to 2015, there was a charge to access the forest. Coordinates: 35°00′34″N 135°40′00″E.

How to Get There: The Arashiyama Bamboo Forest is situated northwest of Kyoto, near the Tenryū-ji temple and the Nonomiya Shrine. It is only 30 minutes or so from Kyoto city center.

Nara Park (Nara, Japan)

Nara Park

Our fourth full day in Japan was to be spent on a whole day tour of Nara, a 32-km. (35-min.) drive from Osaka.  Our first stopover was to be Nara Park (Nara Kōen), a public park at the foot of Mount Wakakusa , designated as one of the “Places of Scenic Beauty” by the Ministry of Education, Culture, Sports, Science and Technology (MEXT). One of the oldest parks in Japan, it was established in 1880.

The park, under the administrative control of Nara Prefecture, is known for its over 1,200 wild, freely roaming sika deer (shika) around in the park that are also under designation of MEXT and classified as Natural Treasures. The sika deer were considered divine and sacred by both Kasuga Grand Shrine and Kōfuku-ji.

L-R: Mark, the author, Matthew, Nenette, Jandy, Grace and Miguel at Nara Park

According to local folklore,  Takemikazuchi, one of the four gods of Kasuga Grand Shrine, received an invitation from Kashima Shrine (in present-day Ibaraki Prefecture) and he was said to, and appeared on Mount Mikasa (also known as Mount Wakakusa) riding a white deer. From that point, killing one of these sacred deer was a capital offense up until 1637, the last recorded date of a breach of that law.

The author, Miguel and Jandy feeding the deer

While the official size of the park is about 502 hectares (1,240 acres), defined by the Urban Park Act in 1960, the surrounding  area including the grounds of the Nara National Museum and Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples, which are either on the edge or surrounded by Nara Park, is as large as 660 hectares (1,600 acres).

Deer engaged in territorial behavior by bumping heads

Within the 660-hectare area are World Heritage Sites (Tōdai-jiKōfuku-jiKasuga Grand Shrine and the Kasugayama Primeval Forest), registered under the title Historic Monuments of Ancient Nara, as well as 47 buildings and 374 arts and crafts (mainly consisting of Buddhist statues and religious arts and crafts) designated as National Treasures and Important Cultural Properties found in the grounds of Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines such as Todai-ji, Kofuku-ji, Kasuga Grand Shrine, ShōsōinShin-Yakushi-jiGangō-ji, and others; designated by the Japanese government.

Check out “Kofuku-ji Temple” and “Todai-ji Temple”

One of 1,700 cherry blossom trees in the park

The Kasugayama Primeval Forest is also designated as a Special Natural Monument (Tokubetsu Tennen Kinenbutsu), while the sika deer, the habitat of the Panchala ganesa butterfly, the Nageia nagi tree forest of Kasuga Grand Shrine, and the Prunus verecunda “Antiqua” tree of Chisokuin are designated as Natural Monuments (Tennen Kinenbutsu).

Japanese Evergreen Oak (Ichiigashi)

Aside from sika deer, the other wild animals that inhabit the park include  wild boarJapanese raccoon dogsJapanese giant flying squirrels and Japanese squirrels, among others. The vegetation consists of pine trees (matsu, some reported to be over 1,000 years old), roughly 1,700 cherry blossom trees (including shidarezakura weeping varieties), camphor trees (kusu), maple trees (momiji), plum treesJapanese cedar (sugi) and Japanese pieris, among others.

Jinrikisha (Japanese Rickshaw)

For centuries, the Nara deer have coexisted with the city’s inhabitants, and now, the multitude of travelers coming, from far and wide, to take their picture-perfect selfies with them. Any visit to Nara Park is never complete without frolicking amongst, and feeding its herds of four-legged creatures. The deer are known for bowing their heads to tourists to request specially sold, registered shika-senbei (“deer-crackers”), at 200¥ per pack, which are exclusively sold by the WNOW company.

These bows are learned (not instinctual) gestures to get food and deer can be highly opportunistic, using bows as an “implied threat” for food.  The experience can unnerving for others who flee in terror as a dozen more of them surround them in search of their own treats. They can also be aggressive, biting, chasing, or head-butting visitors for crackers.

Nara Park: 469 Zoshicho, Nara, 630-8501, Japan. Tel: +81 742-22-0375. Coordinates: 34.685°N 135.85°E

How to Get There: Nara Park is serviced by the Kintetsu Nara Station (a 5-min. walk) and is reachable by the Kintetsu Line from Osaka-Namba Station.

Nunobiki Herb Garden (Kobe, Japan)

Nunobiki Herb Garden

After touring the Ikuta Jinja Shrine and lunch at Yakiniku Like, we proceed to our final Kobe destination which was Nunobiki Herb Garden (Nunobiki Hābu-en), a big 40-acre botanical herb garden (Japan’s largest) located on the 931 m. high Mount Rokkō

Sanroku (Bottom) Station

Built in 1991, it grows over 75,000 herbs (200 varieties) and flowers blooming year-round. To get there we were driven just 1.2 kms. (a 5-min. drive) to the Sanroku (Bottom) Station. 

Check out “Ikuta Jinja Shrine

Nunobiki Ropeway

Here, we boarded a cable car for the 10-min. ride to Nunobiki Herb Garden, with sweeping panoramic views of the Kobe city skyline, the 43 m. tall Nunobiki Falls, the surrounding Rokko Mountain Range, Seto Inland Sea and previews of the gardens below. 

The author, Grace and Jandy inside the gondola
View of Mount Rokko and the Kobe city skyline

Upon arrival at the Sancho (Top) Station, the upper terminal point for the cable car, we then proceeded to the View Rest House, located at an altitude of 400 m., where we were welcomed with many charming garden vignettes with sculptures, sitting areas, carts and flower beds. 

View Rest House

Modeled after the ancient Wartburg Castle in Eisenach, Germany, it has a large gift shop (offering herbal products, essential oils, herb-themed everyday utility items and souvenirs) and a dining option (The Herb Dining) plus access to sweeping outdoor terraces where you can enjoy your meals. There were a few stalls selling burgers, tarts , drinks and soft serve ice cream. We all indulged at the latter. The patio dining area was lined with theme carts (cookery, craft, tea and fragrance).

Herbal Market
The Veranda

The gorgeous Welcome Garden (View Plaza) is surrounded by a castle gate and the View Rest House. Herbs and flowers are in bloom throughout the four seasons.

Welcome Garden
Tulips in full bloom

Nearby is the Mori no Hall, a small, wooden concert hall with great acoustics and a popular vernue for concerts and recitals.

Mori no Hall (Concert Hall)

At the Fragrance Museum, at the ground floor, the historical aspects of fragrance are displayed and explained. Here, you can experience the scent of different natural essential oils.

Fragrance Museum

Fragrant Garden, set against the backdrop of a serene mountain range, this idyllic garden is reminiscent of the European countryside. When strolling along the stone path, visitors will be enveloped by a gentle mint aroma.

Fragrance Garden
View Plaza

At the back of the hall, after the Clock Tower, is the Rose Symphony Garden, a central area with approximately 60 types of fragrant roses (mainly English roses), of assorted colors and shapes that change according to each variety, and other flowers.

Clock tower
Rose Symphony Garden

Instead of taking the cable car all the way back to the Sanroku (Bottom Station, we decided to walk downhill, from the summit, all the way to Kaze no Oka Mid Station, passing through twisting pathways and its 12 distinct, extensive, seasonally-themed areas while enjoying aromatic and scenic views. 

Herb Museum

The first themed area we passed was the Herb Museum.  Like a living encyclopedia, it has around 100 varieties of herbs.  Here, we learned about the attributes of herbs, how to use them and living with herbs. There is a guided tour of the garden every day.

Kitchen Garden Potager

Further down is the Kitchen Garden “Potager,” a kitchen garden that features the mixed planting of vegetables and herbs. Its theme is a “stylish and practical kitchen garden” that you can also enjoy at your own home.

Glass House

From here, a pathway leads down to the Glass House which features a spice museum, a herbal foot bath (behind the Glass House), café lounge, terraced restaurant (The Veranda, offering herb-infused treats) and tropical, fragrant, and citrus-themed plants, including a special, illuminated “rose garden.”

Wall Mural Flower Bed

It provides visitors with the pleasure of planting, observing and smelling the scents of mainly tropical plants such as spices and fruits (guavas, bananas, passion fruit, papayas, etc.) grown in a climate-controlled environment. Also within this garden is a sculpture entitled “Statue of Mother and Child” presented by the Italian city of Terni, as well as a colorful wall mural flower bed.

Lavender Garden

The Lavender Garden, ever enticing with its refreshing fragrance and lovely lavender flowers (which is known as the “Queen of Herbs”), holds a lavender-picking event every June. 

The author, Grace and Jandy at the Four Seasons Garden

At the Four Seasons Garden, specially designed with pretty herbs and flowers arranged according to season, you can get a sense of each season by the roses and other flowers in full bloom covering the area.

Waterfall Patio

The Waterfall Patio, a waterside zone based on the image of Nunobiki Falls, has a tiered flower bed that continues on to the garden below as an expression of the flow of water from the waterfall. The waterside is inhabited by a variety of living things.  Egg-laying, by the forest green tree frog, a precious species, can be observed during the rainy season.

Oriental Garden

The Oriental Garden cultivates useful plants (plants for use in foods, medicine and craftworks) indigenous to Japan and Asia. The garden also provides observation and learning that includes the methods of using each plant.

The Kaze no Oka Flower Garden, at the southern end of the garden, features colorful seasonal flowers and herbs spread across the hill. The garden is situated in a perfect location that offers views of the Kobe landscape. The Lily Garden, which blooms in summer, offers visitors the chance to enjoy the fragrance of lilies. 

Fruit Garden

The Fruit Garden bears a variety of well-known fruits such as citrus, kiwi, pineapple guava, apples to exotic fruits.

Kaze no Oka Mid Station

At the lower end of the garden, near the Kaze no Oka Mid Station, is a Recreation Area with hammocks, gift shop, play equipment (free to use) and the “White Constellation,” a wind sculpture, by Japanese sculptor Susumu Shingu, installed in 1991. Planted with mountain cherry blossoms and lilies, it also has a superb view of Kobe.

White Constellation (Susumo Shingu, 1991)

Nunobiki Herb Garden : 1 Chome-4-3 Kitanocho, Chuo-ku Ward, Kobe, Hyogo Prefecture 650-0002 Japan. Tel: +81 78-271-1160.  Website: www.kobeherb.com. Open daily, 10 AM – 5 PM. Admission: 2,000 yen/adult (admission ticket + round trip ropeway).  Coordinates: 34°42′55″N 135°11′32″E.

How to Get There: The garden is accessed via a scenic 5-minute Shin-Kobe Ropeway gondola lift from Shin-Kobe station in downtown Kobe.

Ikuta Jinja Shrine (Kobe, Japan)

Ikuta Jinja Shrine

After our tour of Meriken Park, it was just a short 2-km. drive to the wonderful Ikuta Shrine (Ikuta-jinja).  A major shrine in Kobe, is believed to be one of the oldest Shinto shrines in Japan.  Famous as a “power spot” for matchmaking and love, dotted around the grounds of Ikuta Jinja are 14 sub-shrines, each dedicated to a different god. This shrine, in Kobe’s city center, has spacious grounds, impressive buildings and, at its rear, you can find a remnant of the ancient forest that once covered the entire area.

Check out “Meriken Park

The author (left) with Miguel, Nenette, Jandy, Matthew, Grace and Mark

According to Nihon Shoki (Nihongi), the second oldest book of of classical Japanese history, it was founded in 201 AD by the Empress Jingū to enshrine the goddess (kami) Wakahirume-no-Mikoto. Empress Jingu was returning from the Three Kan campaign on the Korean Peninsula, when her ship was nearly shipwrecked by bad weather. By praying to Watatsumi, she managed to survive by stopping at what is now Kobe harbor. Upon arrival, she held a divination ceremony that summoned the goddess Wakahirume-no-Mikoto, and the goddess said she wanted a shrine to be built for her in a place called Ikuta.

Old wooden torii

The shrine was originally located, on a sand dune, further north from its current location on Mount Isagoyama. However, in 799 AD, terrible floods threatening to wash the shrine away forced priest Tone Shichidayu to carry the goddess, in a portable shrine, to search for a new home. After 8 days, the portable shrine suddenly became too heavy.  Taking this as a divine message, the goddess was re-enshrined at its present location.

Tower Gate

In 806 AD, 44 households were given responsibility for the care and protection of the shrine and given the title kanbe (meaning “sacred households”). This was the origin of the name of the city of “Kobe,” which is written with the same characters.

Chozu-ya basin

In 1938, the shrine suffered damage during floods and, in 1945, was severely damaged during air raids in World War II.  On January 17, 1995, the shrine suffered significant damage during the Great Hanshin-Awaji Earthquake. However, following each tragic event the shrine was restored with the support of local citizens. As a result, Ikuta Jinja is now loved and respected by the people of Kobe as a symbol of the city’s resilience and resurrection.

Ikuta Shrine Earthquake Recovery Monument

Before entering the shrine, there’s a chozu-ya (or temizuya), a traditional roofed Shinto water ablution pavilion, on the right, where we would ritually purify ourselves, by taking a bamboo scoop and washing our hands and mouth with the water, before approaching the splendid shaden (main shrine building), flanked by lion-dog statues (komainu), where you can softly murmur prayers in your mind.

Shaden (Main Shrine)
Interior of Shanden

We entered the shrine through the striking, vermilion-lacquered tower gate (ro-mon) which marks the transition, from bustling city, to the forested shrine grounds. 

Lion-Dog Statue (Komainu)
Fox Statue (Kitsune)

After passing through the impressive tower gate, we saw booths, on either side, selling a variety of omamori (protective charms) and omikuji (fortune paper slips). To the left of the shaden is a picturesque pond, with lotus flowers (in full bloom from July to August), ducks and koi (Japanese carp), called Ikuta-no-ike.  The serene, leafy pond has a small island accessible by a bridge. 

Ikuta-no-ike

On the island is a small sub-shrine called Ichikishima Jinja, dedicated to Ichikishima-hime, (also called Benzaiten), the goddess of water and all things that flow (like language, performing arts and music).  This peaceful retreat is often visited for romantic blessings.

Ichikishima Jinja

Near the entrance of Ikuta Jinja are two quite important sub-shrines. Just after the second torii gate, on the left side, is the maritime-focused Daikai Jinja (literally “Ocean Shrine”) with a red torii

Daikai Jinja

Dedicated to Sarutahiko-no-Mikoto, a god of guidance and travel, people pray here for safety at sea which is very important in a port city like Kobe. On the right side is Matsuo Jinja with a concrete gray torii. Dedicated to Oyamakui, the god of farming and sake brewing, this is an important shrine as Kobe is the home of many famous sake breweries.

Ikuta-no-mori

At the far end of Ikuta Jinja’s grounds, behind the shaden, is the quiet and peaceful Ikuta-no-mori, the remains of an ancient forest. The forest was the site of the Battle of Ichi-no-Tani, a major battle during the the end of the Heian Period Genpei War (1180-1185), commemorated by markers. Today, Ebira and Ikuta Atsumori, two Noh plays which retell aspects of the Genpei War, are performed, on a regular basis, every year at Ikuta’s Autumn Festival (Akimatsuri), near the Ikuta Shrine. Ikutamorizasha, a sub-shrine inside the forest, is dedicated to the Empress Jingū. People pray here for growing things and for the safe birth of babies.

Cherry blossoms

At Kinryusen, a popular spot in the forest, you can have your fortune read by water.  When you float an initially-blank mizu-omikuji (a Japanese water-activated fortune slip bought at the shrine office, 300 yen) on the water, your fortune (only available in Japanese) will appear, split into different categories such as your lucky color, location, place and more.  Truly, a delightful and interactive experience for visitors.

Lady floating an initially-blank mizu-omikuji at the kinryusen

We also saw rows of omikuji (also in English, Korean and simplified and traditional Chinese) tied to racks. The goddess of weaving, Wakahirume is said to be good at making connections (whether these be business connections or romantic connections) so people pray to her for prosperity in business and happy marriages.

Omikuji (paper fortunes)

Also, as the shrine has survived many disasters in the past, people also pray here for their health and for protection from calamity.  Visitors often make a small donation and draw an omikuji to discover their luck in love and business.  If it’s bad luck, they tie it to a rack to leave the bad luck behind.

Sacred camphor tree

Also within the forest are the remains of a camphor tree which was around 500 years old (seen from its rings) when it fell. It is considered sacred and is seen as a symbol of reconstruction and revival because it survived the bombing of Kobe during World War II and, although terribly burned, it recovered and continued to live for many years.

Inari Shrine

Within the forest, you can also walk through a striking, continuous series of 22 vermillion-lacquered torii gates (often referred to as a “row of red torii), donated in 2016, leading to the Inari Shrine dedicated to Uganomitama-no-Mikoto, the very important god of food, rice (the traditional staple food of Japan) and business prosperity who is also considered the god of fertility and life.

Series of torii

Ikuta Jinja Shrine: 1-2-1 Shimoyamate-dōri, Chūō-ku, KobeHyōgo prefecture 650-0011. Tel: +81 78-321-3851.  Open daily, 8:30 AM to 6:30 PM. Admission is free.  Coordinates: 34°41′42″N 135°11′26″E.

How to Get There: Ikuta Jinja is a short 10-min. walk from JR Sannomiya Station. Here is a map showing its location.

Hyogo Prefectural Maiko Park (Kobe, Japan)

Hyogo Prefectural Maiko Park

From Meriken Park, it was a 16.1-km. (30-min. drive) to our second stopover – the exotic atmosphere of Hyogo Prefectural Maiko Park.   This 7.8-hectare oceanside city park features large grassy areas with sea and bridge views; a 1,500-pine forest; the Akashi Kaikyo Bridge Exhibition Center (displays showing the history of what is the world’s longest suspension bridge) and several historic houses. The current Maiko Park was opened as the first Hyogo prefectural urban park in 1900.

Check out “Meriken Park

Akashi Kaikyo Bridge Exhibition Center

There are plenty of things to do and see at the park.  It is the gateway for the 3,911 m. long Akashi-Kaikyo Bridge which is the world’s largest suspension bridge. Linking Hyogo Prefecture (Kobe) with Awaji Island, it also boasts the world’s longest central span at 1,991 meters. At night, the bridge is illuminated with colorful lights.  This stunning sight, for those crossing the strait, has earned it the nickname “Pearl Bridge.”

L-R: Jandy, the author, Grace, Miguel, Mark, Matthew and Nenette

Underneath the bridge is the Maiko Marine Promenade, a viewing facility built in the bridge girder, approximately 47 m. above the sea and 150 m. above the ground, that offers fantastic views of the Seto Inland Sea and Akashi Strait.  An approximately 317 m. long, circuit-style promenade on the Akashi-Kaikyo Bridge opened on April 5, 1998, it was constructed on the Kobe side of the bridge as an additional facility. Information materials and a DVD system that explain the bridge are available on the first floor of the promenade. There is an observation camera system which makes you feel like you’re on top of the bridge’s 300-m. high main tower. At the observation lounge, on the 8th floor, you can try an additional thrill – the “log-bridge 47 meters above the sea.”

Akashi Kaikyo Bridge

You can also see and visit three historical buildings.  Other Japanese residences, in Osaka and Kobe, have been gradually disappearing since the Hanshin/Awaji Great Earthquake. The Former Residence of Sanji Muto was built in 1907, during the Meiji period, at Maiko Beach, by businessman (he was president of the Kanebo textile company), journalist and politician (he was an active member of the House of Representatives) Muto Sanji.

After Muto was murdered in 1934 (as part of the fallout of the Teijin Incident), it was used by Kanegabuchi Boseki Co., Ltd. as its social welfare facility, and was called the Kanebo Maiko Club (also known as the Old Kanebo Maiko Club).  However, for the expansion work of National Route 2, it was taken down, in conjunction with the construction of the Akashi-Kaikyo Bridge, and the Western-style building was relocated to Kariguchidai, Tarumi-ku.

Former Residence of Sanji Muto

In 2007, Kanebo Co., Ltd. donated the building and furnishings to Hyogo Prefecture and, that same year, the prefecture started relocation/restoration work to move the building back to Maiko Park, its original location. In July 2011, it was registered as a National Tangible Cultural Property. Now a new tourist attraction representing Maiko Park, visitors can enjoy the scenery, from this Western-style seaside cottage, of the Akashi Strait and the pine forest. Inside, it features preserved Meiji-period furniture and stained glass.

The Former Japanese Residence of the Kinoshita Family is an early modern Japanese home built in the tea ceremony arbor (sukiyazukuri) style. Originally completed as a private residence, in 1941, for a man named Ryosuke Matano, it came into Mr. Kichizaemon Kinoshita’s possession in 1952 and, in 2000, the bereaved family of the late Mr. Kichijiro Kinoshita donated it to Hyogo Prefecture. In December 2001, as it has almost completely retained its appearance since its establishment, it was registered as a National Tangible Cultural Property.

Sun Yat-Sen Memorial Hall (Ijokaku)

The iconic Sun Yat-Sen Memorial Hall (Ijokaku), built in 1915 by Wu Jintang (1855-1926), a prosperous Chinese merchant in Kobe, is a cottage with a three-storey octagonal tower (added, as an annex, in 1915) that was shown to the public, in 1984, as Sonchuzan Memorial Hall. It exhibits information materials related to Chinese revolutionary and first president of the Republic of China Sun Yat-sen who was honored with a dinner, hosted by the local Chinese business community, in 1913. On December 10, 1993, tt was registered as a Prefectural Important Tangible Cultural Property and, on November 14, 2001, as a National Important Tangible Cultural Property.

The author, Jandy and Grace

Nearby is monument “Dream Lens,” an iconic photo spot created by a sculptor Keizo Ushio.  It was installed to commemorate the 5th anniversary of the foundation of the Akashi-Kaikyo Bridge, the embodiment of half a century of technology. The Moebius strip, made of rock with three different types of surface, represents people, nature, and science as well as the main island of Japan, Awaji Island, and Shikoku, which are connected by the Akashi-Kaikyo Bridge. These three layers harmonize well, expressing hope for development in the future.

Dream Lens (Keiso Ushio)

Hyogo Prefectural Maiko Park: 4-2051 Higashimaikocho, Tarumi-ku, Kobe, Hyogo 655-0047, Japan.  Tel: +81 78-785-5090.

How to Get There: The closest train stations to Maiko Park and the Akashi Kaikyo Bridge are Maiko Station on the JR Sanyo Line and Maikokoen Station on the Sanyo Electric Railway, both just a few hundred meters from the park. The journey is 35 to 45 minutes from Himeji, or 25 minutes from Sannomiya Station in Kobe.

Meriken Park (Kobe, Japan)

Meriken Park

Our third whole day in Japan was spent on a day tour of Kobe which was just a 37.1-km. (40-min. drive) from Osaka.  Our first stopover was at Meriken Park, a nice waterfront park located in Kobe’s port area.  The park’s name was derived from the word “American,” which was commonly translated as “Meriken” during the Meiji era. Upon arrival, we first had breakfast at a stylish, 2-storey Starbucks outlet, with its ship-inspired design. Opened in 2017, it featured hishibuki (traditional diamond-patterned metal plates meant to evoke the feeling of a ship’s cabin) and offered stunning waterfront views of Kobe Harbor from its large glass walls and second floor outdoor balcony.

Beside the Starbucks store is the Bell of Hortensia, a colorful, modern mosaic sculpture. Installed on June 19, 1990, it represents the Hydrangea macrophylla, Kobe’s official flower.  It was established to commemorate the opening of the first Kobe Fashion Festival in November 1989, which was part of the World Fashion Festival ’89. When it was first installed at the “symbol monument of the fashion city of Kobe,” the bell was rung but, after the Great Hanshin earthquake, which devastated the park, it has not been rung.

Bell of Hortensia
Kobe Maritime Museum

Built on an outcropping of reclaimed land, this waterfront park, a popular spot for locals and tourists, is covered in grassy lawn and open courtyards and is dotted with a collection of modern art installations and fountains. Meriken Park, the location of the Hotel Okura Kobe, Sannomiya Ferry Terminal (where the Jumbo Ferry, connecting Kobe, Shodoshima, and Takamatsu, and the Miyazaki Car Ferry, departs and arrives) and the wave-shaped Kobe Meriken Park Oriental Hotel, is home to some of the city’s more iconic contemporary architecture such as the red Kobe Port Tower and Kobe Maritime Museum.

Kobe Meriken Park Oriental Hotel

To the west of the Maritime Museum stands the 108 m. (354 ft.) high Kobe Port Tower, a unique, red-painted steel structure completed in 1963, was designed by the Nikken Sekkei Company to look like a tsuzumi, a Japanese drum. A symbol of the port and the city, it is the first tower built using a pipe lattice.  The tower has a total of 8 layers and is surrounded by 32 red steel staves as a symbol of welcome for vessels returning to the shore. It has five observation decks, approximately 100 m. above ground, including an open-air rooftop deck and a revolving cafe and bar.

Port of Kobe Tower

The “Be Kobe” Monument, installed in 2017 to commemorate the 150th anniversary of the opening of Kobe Port, is a popular photo spot.  The phrase “Be Kobe,” introduce in 2015 (the 20th anniversary of the Great Hanshin earthquake), is a civic pride message that expresses the idea that the chrm of Kobe lies in its people, inspired by those who work hard for the city’s recovery.

Be Kobe Sign

Kobe Port was once Japan’s most important departure point for overseas immigrants and the famous Kobe Port Emigrants Memorial Statue (also known as “Set Sail for Hope” or “Memorial Statue of Emigrants Boarding the Emigrant Ship”) honors the thousands of Japanese citizens who emigrated from Kobe Port, for new lives abroad, particularly to Brazil, in the early 20th century.

Kobe Port Emigrants Memorial Statue

Erected in 2001, it also serves as a reminder of the “National Kobe Emigrant Camp” history, where families awaited ships to travel abroad.  This bronze monument, erected in 2001, features a family (two adults and a child gazing out at the sea), symbolizing the departure.  The main statue is titled “Hope’s Departure.” The statue is seen as a bridge connecting Japan and the destination countries of immigrants, symbolizing international exchange and pioneering spirit.

Meriken Theatre Monument

The unique Meriken Theatre Monument, erected in 1987, commemorates Kobe as the location of the first public movie screening in Japan.  A popular photo spot, it was designed to look like a cinema screen and theatre seats. 

Kobe Kaientai Monument

The Kobe Kaientai Monument, a notable abstract sculpture, commemorates the Kobe Kaientai, a historical naval group active at the end of the Edo Period.

Save Northern People (Kaneichi Futakuchi)

“Save Northern People,” a notable abstract, human-shaped bronze sculpture created by sculptor Kaneichi Futakuchi, was a winner of the Port of Kobe Anniversary Commemorative Award.  It is often interpreted as a tribute to those who left Kobe in search of a better life far away.

Sannomiya Ferry Terminal
A ship docked at the harbor

Meriken Park: 2 Hatobacho, Chuo-ku, Kobe-shi, Hyogo-ken, 650-0042.

How to Get There: Meriken Park is about a 10-minute walk south of Motomachi Station, on the JR Kobe Line, or just across the sightseeing cruise terminal from Kobe Harborland.

teamLab Botanical Garden (Osaka, Japan)

teamLab Botanical Garden

After our Tempozan Ferris Wheel ride and early dinner at Tempozan Harbor Village, we again boarded our van for 19-km. (25-min.) drive to experience the new interactive outdoor art exhibit of teamLab, an international art collective, at the 240,000 sq. m. Nagai Botanical Garden, an outdoor botanical garden in Nagai Park that opened in 1974.

Taking the light show out of the hustle and bustle of the city streets and into a more natural setting, teamLab aims to explore an environment where human perception expands from the artwork itself to the environment. Their stunning, immersive nighttime installation transformed the natural landscape into an interactive digital canvas.

From our drop-off point, it was still a long walk to the entrance. Nestled among the forests and fields of the botanical garden were a variety of illuminated exhibits, ranging in size and scope from subtle illuminations embedded in the grass to completely awe-inspiring radiant pillars that dance in the wind and reach into the sky. Once we entered the grounds, it felt like we were transported to a world, miles away from Osaka. Deep, meditative music filled the air as we walked through the wide pathway flanked by towering bald cypress trees.

The Resonating Trees Exhibit

While subtle at first, we began to notice that the lights illuminating the trees rose and fell in brightness, depending on your proximity to them. This is our first hint that this was more than just a walk in the garden—we were a part of the exhibit. We didn’t find any velvet ropes or “do not touch” signs here.  Instead, we were encouraged to see how our interactions, within this unique “ecosystem,” would influence our surroundings.

As we walked through the garden of The Resonating Trees Exhibit, the trees shone brightly. When we passed close by, the trees changed color and emitted a unique musical tone. This wave of light and sound continuously spred outward to the surrounding trees. If light approached from a distance, it signified the presence of other people or wildlife, turning the ecosystem into an active canvas. Because the artwork interacted directly with nature, the display shifted in response to the wind, rain, and the natural seasonal changes of the trees.

Sculptures of Dissipative Birds in the Wind

Rounding a corner, we saw The Sculptures of Dissipative Birds in the Wind installation, widely considered the signature and most spectacular open-air piece of the permanent exhibition.  It brings the invisible forces of nature—the wind and the physical flight of the birds—to life. Standing tall, on the edge of the lake, looking not unlike Van Gogh’s Starry Night coming to life here in Japan, the flowing swirls of color react to the flight paths of any passing birds that live in Nagai Park, further adding to the layers of interactivity throughout the gardens.

Lines and swirling patterns of bright, shifting light (in vibrant gradations of red, blue, green, and yellow) trace flight paths across the night sky and the installation’s structures. Because it reacts continuously in real time to actual wind speeds and the movement of the ecosystem, no two movements are ever exactly the same. Every second of the display is completely unique.  

Resonating Microcosms in the Common Camellia Garden Exhibit

Continuing along the pathway, through the trees, and the sights continued to change with the landscape at The Resonating Microcosms in the Common Camellia Garden Exhibit. Small, waist-high glowing eggs fill the forest around the camelia garden, which foreshadows the absolutely overwhelming mass of 10 ft. tall orbs in the eucalyptus garden. During the day, their mirrored surfaces reflect the surrounding environment but, after sunset, they come alive.  

Getting lost amongst these luminous ovoid sculptures was a highlight for us, putting a smile on our face.  As we walked among them or when the wind blew, the ovoids react, glowing in up to 61 distinct colors and emitting unique sounds. When we pushed one ovoid or when it responded to its surroundings, it echoed out to the neighboring ovoids, creating a continuous, rippling wave of light and sound throughout the entire garden.

Forest of Autonomous Resonating Life – Eucalyptus

At the Forest of Autonomous Resonating Life Exhibit, the densely packed, standing ovoids of light are autonomous. When an ovoid was pushed over, by people moving through or blown down by the wind, it rose back up as the color of its light changed and emitted a tone specific to that color.

The author

The surrounding ovoids responded one after another, continuously changing to the same color and emitting the same tone. When the wind was not blowing and the people nearby were not interacting with the ovoids, their lights began to blink slowly.

Floating Resonating Lamps on Oike Lake

At the Floating Resonating Lamps on Oike Lake – Fire Exhibit, each of the lamps on the Oike Lake’s surface floated autonomously. When we stood still near a lamp, or when the wind blew a lamp, it shone brightly and produced a tone.

The light of that lamp spred to nearby lamps, one by one, as they resonated with the same tone, continuing on to the trees on the islet in the center of the lake. If light approached from the other side, it signified the presence of people there, making them more aware of the existence of others in the same space. When the wind was not blowing and people were not nearby, the lamps began to blink slowly.

Pillars That Dance with the Wind

At the Pillars That Dance with the Wind Exhibit, the installation challenged the traditional notion that human structures must be solid and stable (like concrete). Instead, the pillars were soft, flexible, and defined entirely by their environment. The pillars changed in number, movement, and height based on the wind, rain, and humidity. They also interacted dynamically with visitors who walked near or touched them, creating patterns that were never repeated. Because the artwork relied so heavily on real-time environmental data, strong winds or heavy rain could cause the installation to be temporarily closed for safety.

teamLab Botanical Garden: Nagai Park, 1-23 Nagaikoen, Higashisumiyoshi-ku Ward, Osaka. Nighttime only; hours vary by season (usually opens from dusk, roughly 7 PM to 7:30 PM, until 9:30 PM with last entry at 8:30 PM). Admission: ~¥2,000 to ¥2,200 for adults (prices can fluctuate slightly depending on peak or off-peak seasons), with discounts available for students and children. Tel: 06-6699-5120. Website: teamlab.art/e/botanicalgarden/

How to Get There: Take the Osaka Metro Tanimachi Line to Nagai Station, a 10-min. walk on the Midosuji subway line. Take exit 3 and walk east through Nagai park to access the admission gates. From Exit 1 or 2, it is a brief 10 to 15-minute walk into Nagai Park to reach the botanical garden entrance. Via the JR Railway, it can also be reached via the JR Nagai Station, a 12-min. walk, on the JR Hanwa line (take the East Exit and walk east through Nagai park to access the admission gates).  Via the Kintetsu Railway, it is 15-min. walk from Harinakano Station on the Kintetsu Minami-Osaka line. Take the West Exit and walk through Nagai park to access the admission gates.

Tempozan Ferris Wheel (Osaka, Japan)

Tempozan Ferris Wheel

After admiring the Osaka skyline from the Kuchu Keien Observatory at the Umeda Sky Building, we had some free time to explore the Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan (one of the largest aquariums in the world), a 13.9-km./20-min. drive away but, as we arrived late, we decided to try out the nearby Tempozan Ferris Wheel.

Check out “Umeda Sky Building

Ticket Office

After paying the admission fee, we boarded two of its 60 airconditioned gondolas (three are barrier-free, allowing wheelchair users to board directly, while 8 gondolas have seats and floors that are see-through, giving you a 360° view of the scenery around your feet). During the ride, commentary is provided in both Japanese and English.

Boarding our gondola

This 112 m. tall (367 ft.)  Ferris wheel  has a height of 112.5 m. (369 ft.) and diameter of 100 m. (330 ft.). Opened to the public on July 12, 1997, it was then the tallest Ferris wheel in the world.  During our fantastic, 17-minute aerial journey, we were offered a view of Osaka Bay and surrounding areas, including Mount Ikoma to the east, Akashi Kaikyō Bridge to the west, Kansai International Airport to the south, and the Rokko Mountains to the north.

The author, Grace, Nenette and Miguel

The wheel has colored LED lights, another popular attraction, that provide a weather forecast for the next day. Orange lights indicate a sunny day, green lights a cloudy day and blue lights indicate rain. Illuminating Osaka Port, they have now become one of Osaka’s nighttime attractions.

The Osaka skyline
Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan

Tempozan Ferris Wheel: 1-1-10 Kaigan-dori, Minato-ku, Tempozan Harbor Village, Osaka-shi, 552-0022, Japan. Tel: +81 6-6576-6222. Open daily, 10 AM-10 PM (last entry 9:30 PM). Admission: JPY900 per person (3 years old and above). Coordinates: 34°40′N 135°26′E.

How to Get There: It’s about a 5-minute walk from Osakako Station on Osaka Metro Chuo Line.

Umeda Sky Building (Osaka, Japan)

Kuchu Teien Observatory at Umeda Sky Building

After our tour of Shitennoji Temple and lunch at Marumiya Restaurant, we transported, via van, for 12 kms. (a 30-min. drive) to the 170 m. (557.74 ft) high Umeda Sky Building (Umeda Sukai Biru),  a mixed-use skyscraper with two 40-storey towers (Tower East and Tower West). The tower also has an underground market that attempts to recreate the atmosphere of Osaka in the early 20th century. 

Check out “Shitenno-ji Temple

Umeda Sky Building
Wall of Hope (Tadao Ando)

The Umeda Sky Building was designed by Hiroshi Hara, the architect of the Kyoto Station Building, and were constructed by Takenaka Corporation. It was completed in March 1993. In 2008, The Times, a British newspaper, selected the Umeda Sky Building among the “Top 20 Buildings around the World,” recognizing it as an Osaka landmark due to its futuristic, dramatic design. The list also included the Sagrada Familia in Spain, the Taj Mahal of India and the Parthenon of Greece.

The author (left) with Grace and Jandy at the Kuchu Teien Observatory

The two towers are interconnected, at the 39th, 40th and roof deck floors, by the famous Kuchu Teien (“Floating Garden”) Observatory.  Elevators cross an open atrium space.  The 35th floor is connected to the 39th floor (the observatory entrance) by see-through escalators covered in a transparent tube. A popular spot to take photos, here we felt like we were standing inside a spaceship.

The see-through escalator

The last stop of the escalator, the 39th floor, is open to the public. It consists of a ticket counter at the 39th floor where, after purchasing a ticket, visitors may enter the indoor observatory deck at the 40th floor and the Sky Walk, an open-air lookout (rooftop).  Sangu (an authentic Chinese restaurant serving lunch and dinner), and Stardust (a bar serving Italian course meals with 300 types of cocktails) are also located on the 39th floor.

The Yodo River
The Osaka skyline

The observatory offers great views of the city through its windows and from its 360° open-air rooftop observation deck where we felt the refreshing breeze, a must-see at least once in any season and at any time of day.  Here, we had views of the skyscrapers in the Umeda area, the Yodo River (the symbol of the city), Odori Park, Susukino, Sapporo Dome and, when the weather is fine, the Akashi Kaikyo Bridge, the longest suspension bridge in the world, is also visible. Dusk to evening is said to be the best time to drop by since visitors can enjoy the sunset and night view.

Cafe SKY 40

Cafe SKY 40, at the indoor observation floor (40th floor), features a 35 m. long glass counter, allowing you to enjoy cafe time as if floating in the sky.  It serves coffee, alcoholic beverages, and snacks.

Heart Lock Counter

The one-and-only Heart Lock, a heart-shaped padlock, is especially popular with couples who can choose among ten colors and have their names and date engraved.

Lumi Deck

They can be taken home as a souvenir or can also be placed “Fence of Vows” at the Lumi Deck (rooftop), a sky-high dating spot, or the Chikai no Saku (“Fence of Pledges”) inside the shop. Once shut, the padlock cannot be opened, so it will be a unique memory with someone special.

Heart Locks at Lumi Deck

Umeda Sky Building: Kita Ward, Oyodonaka, 1 Chome−1−88 531-6039 OsakaJapan. Open daily, 9:30 AM to 10:30 PM (last admission: 10 PM). Tel: +81 6-6440-3855. Admission: 2,000 yen (adults), 500 yen (children, 4 years old to Elementary School). If you have Osaka e-pass, admission is free until 3:00 PM. If you would like to purchase the popular Heart Rock, be sure to purchase your online ticket with Heart Rock in advance.

How to Get There: It is a 7-min. walk from JR Osaka Station and a 9-min. walk from Hankyu Osaka-Umeda Station/ Osaka Metro Umeda Station