Arrival in Sagada (Mountain Province)

Sagada

We arrived at Sagada by 4 PM. Upon our arrival at the bus terminal near the municipal hall, Jandy and I checked in at one of the 5 double rooms with common bath at the second floor of nearby Ganduyan Inn, managed by Hanzel and Marina Biag. The inn was strategically located as it was just across the bus terminal and the municipal hall.  Rate was a very cheap PhP75 per person per day. The inn also had a restaurant.  According to Marina, her husband, as well as a significant portion of Sagada’s population, are descendants of Biag, a folk hero of the Igorots  and the most important figure in Sagada’s history.  Biag introduced new rites, prayers and customs.

Ganduyan Inn

As it was late in the afternoon, we decided to just visit the nearby Episcopal Church of St. Mary the Virgin.  Along the winding, pine needle-paved cement lane, to the  right of the basketball court, is this massive, gray stone Anglican church,  originally built under the direction of Reverend John Staunton and consecrated on December 8, 1921.  It was  badly damaged (especially the belfry) by U.S. bombing raids during World War II and later repaired.  The oldest church in the Cordilleras outside of Baguio City, its foreign architectural design is fused with indigenous motifs.  Further down is the 30-hectare St. Mary’s High School.  Founded in 1912, it was destroyed in World War II, rebuilt in 1950, destroyed by fire in 1975 and reopened in 1983.

Episcopal Church of St. Mary the Virgin

After this short tour we returned to the inn for supper at its coffee shop.   Food in Sagada is really cheap and the servings humongous.  Noteworthy is its tasty native red rice (kintuman), mountain tea and its aromatic and strong Arabian coffee, locally-grown, grounded and roasted.

Sagada Municipal Hall

Crystal Caves (Baguio City, Benguet)

During the Holy Week break, I decided to bring Jandy to Sagada and Banaue.  However, to get to Sagada, we had to go via Baguio City as there is no direct route there, by public transportation, from Manila.  That being the case, I decided to stay 2 nights in the city before leaving for Sagada. We took the very early 7 AM Victory Liner bus for Baguio City and arrived there by 1:30 PM.  From the bus terminal, we took a taxi to the city proper and booked ourselves at the AJ Pension House.  Once settled in, we had a late lunch at a Chowking outlet.  As it was already late in the afternoon, I decided to just bring Jandy to the Crystal Caves,   located 5 kms. from the city center, off the Palispis-Aspiras Highway.  We got there via jeepney.  
 
Inside Crystal Cave
I remembered visiting Crystal Caves with my Dad and brother Frank when I was still young. Back then, I was impressed by the firefly-like, crystalline rock the cave was named for.  These interconnected caverns, found on the northern foot of Mt. Sto. Tomas, are believed to be an old Igorot burial site just like the nearby Timbac Caves.  At the cave entrance, we were swamped by natives offering their services as guides.  I got a couple of guides with some torches and flashlights.
 
Traversing the cave from end to end wasn’t difficult as it was horizontal all the way.  I was quite disappointed with what I saw inside.  The cave has now been stripped by robbers of its stalactites, stalagmites and precious crystals which were sold to tourists.  The cave survived World War II bombings and the 1990 earthquake but it is slowly dying or irretrievably dead from all  this looting.  The high cave ceiling, blackened from the soot of torches, only had a couple of resident bats.  Worst, there seems to no conservation effort to save what’s left of the cave.
 
Disappointed at this turn of events, we returned to the city proper, had dinner at Star Cafe and returned to our inn.
 
Crystal CavesCrystal Cave Rd., Baguio City, Benguet.  
 
How to Get There:  Take a jeepney at the cor. of Otek and Chanum Sts. to Palispis-Aspiras Highway.  Visit only during the dry season (May to November).  

Gigantes Island Hopping (Carles, Iloilo)

Gigante Norte Island

After a hearty breakfast with the whole group at the coffee shop, a hectic schedule of island hopping awaited us.   We left Balbagon Island, together with other resort guests, by 10 AM. on board a large outrigger boat.  Along the way we passed many of the beautiful islands that the Gigantes are known for.  After about 30 mins., we reached our first destination: the southern side of Brgy. Gabi in Gigante Norte Island.  Our boat docked along a steep rocky wall.  As it was high tide, our climbed up the wall was shorter.  Upon reaching the top of the wall, we beheld before us  a hidden lagoon with clear, shallow waters  surrounded by steep and rugged limestone cliffs covered with sparse vegetation.

A hidden lagoon called Tangke

Calm, circular and lake-like lagoons (doubtless from the Spanish word laguna meaning “lake”) such as these are found in low latitude countries such as the Philippines.  They have openings to the sea, always leeward of prevailing winds, but are protected from it by a sandbar or coral reef.  Here, the clear shallow waters rise and fall with the tides.   According to one theory, lagoons are formed when hard coral growth in the center fails to keep pace with those on the periphery.  Waves and storms disintegrate coral in the center and pile them up at the margin, increasing the height of the island which in the course of time become covered by vegetation.

This salt water lagoon before us was locally called Tangke (“tank”).  The lagoon’s rugged limestone periphery, weathered to an incredibly rough surface, are of organic origin.  They are formed by the accumulation of the calcareous skeletons of marine animals and plants, mainly coral and coralline algae.  Its flora is sparse, mostly a few widely distributed strand plants and trees.   Living coral polyps continually extend the fringe. Such was the beauty of the place that we can’t wait to get into our swimming outfits and dip in its shallow, sparklingly clear waters.  Simply Heaven! Other members of the party opted to climb its lofty cliffs in an effort to be physically (and dangerously) nearer to their Creator.  The place is also a 15-min. boat ride east of Sitio Langub.

Little Boracay

After about 30 mins. of lolling around the lagoon, we again boarded our pumpboat for our next destination, a beach called “Little Boracay.”   We arrived at 11:10 AM.  The beach before us was truly a mini-version of the country’s number one destination, albeit shorter.  The other difference is its seclusion.   The beach is backed by a steep, densely-vegetated limestone cliff and because of this there are no resorts. The turquoise waters were just as clear and the white sand beach gradually sloping and fine as sugar, with hardly any shells or pebbles.     Jandy and Cheska were soon off swimming in the shallow waters as our portable monobloc chairs and tables and beach umbrellas were unloaded.  Lunch was served al fresco in food warmers by the beach and eaten kamayan style.  And what a lunch it was!  Tropical paradise at its best.

The sandbar of Cabugao Gamay Island

We would have wanted to stay longer in this beautiful, secluded beach but our itinerary dictated otherwise as we had to leave for our next destination.  After packing our stuff, it was off to another boat ride to an inhabited Cabugao Gamay Island which had a very long, treeless sandbar with beige sand.  We arrived by 1 PM and were greeted by a native selling to us a sea turtle secured by a rope tied around a notch at the rear of its shell.  What a sorry sight.  Poor fellow.  We refused his offer.

After the usual photo shoot for posterity, it was back to our boat for the return trip.  We were back at the resort by 2 PM.  Our island hopping tour was the highlight of our trip to Balbagon and the Gigantes Islands.  Too bad, all good things must come to pass.  The next day, we all left the island early in the morning for the boat trip back to Estancia and the long and tiring land trip to Iloilo City where we had lunch and took the last flight back to Manila, arriving there by 5 PM.

Balbagon Island: Coral Cay Resort (Carles, Iloilo)

Coral Cay Resort in Balbagon Island

The Gigantes Islands, located off northeast Panay in Carles (Iloilo), first came into prominence long before Boracay became a byword  in the tourism industry.  In the 1970s and 80s, its luxurious Sicogon Island Club was one of the first beach resort hotels in the country to achieve international recognition. Its happy days ended when the resort closed down in 1989.  There is more to the Gigantes than just Sicogon as it still has 100 small, rugged, idyllic and fascinating islands, most with white sand beaches, plus hills covered with spectacular first and second growth virgin forests, hidden coves, and many massive wind-carved and steep rock formations containing many deep, cathedral-like granite and marble caves. It also has rich marine life and simple fishing villages inhabited by 300 families.   My wife Grace’s outfit for many years now, E. Ganzon Inc., owned and developed a resort called Coral Cay Resort on Balbagon Island.  We decided to give it a visit after Christmas Day.

Villa Lily Beach Resort in Estancia

I, together with Grace, 11 year old Jandy and 7 year old Cheska left on the early morning Philippine Airlines flight to Iloilo City.  Joining us were Atty. Jose Salazar, his wife and kids and Grace’s fellow E.G.I Properties employees Mr. Disney Sevilla, Ms. Marivic Santiago, Ms. Carol Reyes and Ms. Rhoda Evora.  At the airport, we were picked up by a company van that would take us on a 135.6-km.  (3.5-hr.) long-haul drive to Villa Lily Beach Resort in Estancia, jump-off point to more than 20 of the islands of the Gigantes including Balbagon Island.    

Arrival at Balbagon Island

Upon arrival at the hilltop resort, we waited 30 mins. for the arrival of company boat that would bring us, together with other guests, to the island. The 8 nautical mile long boat trip took about an hour, passing by the large Gigantes islands of Binulangan and Calagnaan as well as the smaller islands of Tabugon, Tulunan-an and Ojastras before reaching the relatively flat, fish-shaped island of Balbagon.  As there was no pier on Balbagon, we alighted a la MacArthur, getting our feet wet before reaching dry land.

The 42-hectare, 1.5-km. long Balbagon Island is located near Gigante Sur Island and is a 20-min. boat ride from the island’s Brgy. Lantangan. Upon our arrival here, we were billeted in one of Coral Cay Resort’s 10 airconditioned cottages. Each cottage, with its bamboo-cladded interior walls and exterior walls cladded with split coconut logs, has its own tiled bathroom and verandah.  This  Class “A” resort also has 25 fan-cooled cottages with bath and a coffee shop/restaurant.

A Balbagon sunset

On our first night on the island, a torch-lit dinner was served al fresco under the stars along its dazzling white sand beach lined with prickly aroma trees. Seafood, consisting of crabs, shrimps and fish, was the “standard” cuisine and was mostly eaten by many in the kamayan style.  The next two days at the resort were packed with stress-free fun: swimming, sunbathing, shell picking, eating, camaraderie, videoke, waiting for the beautiful sunset  or simply just relaxing by the beach and reading a good book.  No work, TV, telephones, pollution, noise and traffic jams. Our 12th wedding anniversary on the 28th (Ninos Inocentes) was spent quietly in much the same way.  Disney and I circumnavigated the island’s 3 km. long shoreline in about 30 mins., passing by a rocky shore where sea birds roost as well as the nearby barangay.  We also walked along the exposed reef at low tide. Along the way, we discovered a beached basket sponge which we brought back to the resort.

Macau City Tour

The next day, after breakfast at the hotel, Grace and I decided to go on a day tour of the nearby Portuguese enclave of Macau via fast ferry from Hong Kong.  This would our first visit to this city renowned for its gambling and annual Macau Grand Prix.

On December 20, 1999, the People’s Republic of China assumed formal sovereignty over Macau from Portugal and it is now one of its 2 Special Administrative Regions (SAR), the other being Hong Kong.

From the hotel, we proceeded to Jordan MRT Station and took the MRT to Sheung Wan Station.  From there, we walked to the HK-Macau Ferry Terminal. High-speed Jetfoils leave here every 30 mins. or so and the trip took an hour.

Macau

Upon arrival at the Macau-Hongkong Ferry Terminal, we proceeded to the terminal’s tourist information desk to inquire on how to tour the city.  We were surprised to find the desk being manned by a Filipino.  He suggested we hire a taxi to go around the city and soon a taxi driver appeared. We placed our trust in our kababayan as he dictated an itinerary to our designated “tour guide.”

Our leisurely taxi ride first took us past  Macau’s Casino on Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro (the main street), to the Fortress of Our Lady of Guia, the highest point on Macau.  Here, we had a good view of the city, the outlying islands, the harbor and the Macau-Taipa Bridge.

Macau-Taipa Bridge

Guia Fortress was designed to defend the border with China but because of its position overlooking the entire city, its chief value has been as an observation post. Built from 1637 to 1638 by Captain of the Artillery, Antonio Ribeiro, Guia fort has 10-ft. high masonry walls, 2 brickwork turrets and occupies 8,600 sq. ft. in a rough pentagon as dictated by the rough terrain.  Its dominating feature is the 52.5-ft. high lighthouse, built in 1865 and the oldest on the China coast.  Its light could be seen for 20 miles in clear weather.

We also had a short walking tour at postcard-pretty Leal Senado Square with its European-inspired architecture of the Leal Senado, shops and pretty fountain.

Leal Senado Square

A substantial part our itinerary were churches and we visited a couple of them.  When Macau was established by the Portuguese, it was expected to be a bastion of Christianity as well as trading post, and they called it “City of the Name of God, Macau.”  Macau became an early center for Jesuit missionary activity.  In 1580, the Bishopric of Macau (which included the Indonesian island of Timor and the Christians of Malacca and Singapore) was created. The first settlers included priests and some of the first buildings were churches, initially constructed with wood and matting.  Later, they were made with taipa (rammed clay) and from the mid-17th century, of stone and plaster.  They were built by Jesuits and other monastic orders with funds provided by the city and the Portuguese crown.

Over the centuries fires and storms have devastated Macau’s churches, but almost all have been restored or rebuilt.  Macau’s multi-colored churches, all named after popular saints (St. Joseph, St. Augustine, St. Paul, St. James, St. Francis Xavier, etc.) as well as the Blessed Virgin (Our Lady of Fatima, Our Lady of Sorrows, Our Lady of Guia, Our Lady of Carmel, etc.), has a predominantly European Baroque flavor with Oriental and tropical features incorporated.  These can be seen in roofs of Chinese tiles, panels of terra cotta and Eastern motifs carved on some facades.

Chapel of Our Lady of Penha

The Chapel of Our Lady of Penha, atop Penha Hill, was founded in 1622 by the crew and passengers which narrowly escaped capture by the Dutch.  The chapel served as a point of pilgrimage for sailors embarking on a hazardous journey.  It was completely rebuilt, along with the Bishop’s Palace, in 1837.

Chapel of Our Lady of Penha

St. Paul’s (Rua de Sao Paolo), the greatest of Macau’s churches and the major landmark of Macau, was built in 1602 and adjoins the Jesuit College of St.Paul’s.  After the expulsion of the Jesuits, the college was used as an army barracks and in 1835 a fire started in the kitchens and destroyed the college and the body of the church.  Now in ruins, all that remained was the magnificent carved stone façade (built from 1620 to 1627 by Japanese Christian exiles and local craftsmen under the direction of Italian Jesuit Father Carlo Spinola) and the grand staircase.

The façade rises in four collonaded tiers and is covered with the statues of the Virgin and saints and carvings of the Garden of Eden, the Crucifixion, the angel, the devil, a Chinese dragon, a Portuguese sailing ship, a Japanese chrysanthenum and pious warnings inscribed in Chinese.

We also visited the Temple of A-Ma.  As with many others in Macau, the temple combines both the Buddhist and Taoist beliefs.  A-Ma (meaning “Honored Mother”) is a much-revered Taoist goddess, the patron of seafarers and the Queen of Heaven.

The history of the goddess goes back to around 1044 AD when in Fukien province (about 350 miles north of Macau), a poor fisherman named Lin gave birth to a baby girl.  At the time of birth a red glow was seen over the house. She grew to be a most remarkable child, never crying, hardworking, obedient and devout.

One day, when the girl was sleeping, she dreamt that two junks carrying here father and brothers were caught in the storm.  In the dream, she stretch out her arms and clenched the masts of the vessels with her fists.  Her alarmed mother, fearing that her child was suffering a fit, shook her by her arm to wake her up, causing her to let go of one of the boats.  Later, when her brothers returned, they told the story of a vision of a beautiful girl that reached out to save them but was unable to hold unto the father’s boat and thus he perished.

Lin died tragically in her early 20’s but stories of miraculous rescues at sea, with the lovely woman calming the waves and bringing the sailors to safety.  Two centuries later, during the Ming Dynasty (1368 to 1643 AD), she was canonized as the First Lady Attendant in Heaven and Protector of Seafarers.  In the years that followed, she was elevated with more titles till finally, in 1683, she was promoted to Tien Hau (Queen of Heaven).

A-Ma has taken on the mantle of the protector of Macau as a whole and people from all walks of life pay homage to her.  Childless women believe that, in her capacity as Honored Mother, prayers to her will help them conceive the child that they long for.

A-Ma Temple was the last item in our itinerary and our guide brought us back to the ferry terminal where we took another high-speed ferry back to Hong Kong.

Return to Hong Kong

Grace’s officemate Ms. Arachel “Chel” C. Borja was leaving for Hong Kong with her kids to accompany her husband who was to attend a convention and Grace and I decided to join them.  We all left Manila for Hong Kong on 6:30 AM flight, arriving at Kai Tak International Airport by 8:10 AM.

This was to be our last entry into Hong Kong via this international airport. Landings at this airport were dramatic to experience and technically demanding for pilots.  A little over a year later, on July 6, 1998, Kai Tak was closed and replaced by the new Hong Kong International Airport at Chek Lap Kok, 30 kms. to the west. There were plans for the site of Kai Tak to be used for housing development.

From the airport, we all took a bus to the city proper and checked out our accommodations at Payless Pension along Nathan Rd..  Grace and I found it quite rundown and decide not to take it.

BP International Hotel – Twin Room

We all had lunch at a MacDonald’s outlet then dropped off Chel and her family at the Hyatt Regency Hotel.  We then decided to check in at one of the BP International Hotel’s 529 guest rooms.

Check out “Hotel and Inn Review: B P International Hotel

B P International Hotel: No. 8 Austin Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong.  Tel: (852) 2376 1111. Fax: (852) 2376 1333. E-mail: enquiry@bpih.com.hk. Website: www@bpih.com.hk.

EGI Resort and Hotel (Lapu-Lapu City, Cebu)

Right after Christmas, 10-year old Jandy and I flew to Cebu, arriving on the early morning PAL flight with Grace’s fellow E. Ganzon, Inc. (EGI)  employees Cecille Marquez and Mary Jane Malamug.  Grace and and 6 year old Cheska were to follow the next day.  We were picked up at Mactan International Airport and shuttled, in about 15 mins., to the 8-storey E.G.I.-owned EGI Resort and Hotel, located amidst a strand of world-class resorts and hotels in Mactan Island.  

EGI Resort and Hotel
Upon arrival at the resort, we checked into a corner airconditioned suite with cable TV, a fridge with minibar, NDD/IDD phone, bath (with bathtub and shower with hot and cold water) and a private balcony with a beautiful view of the sea and the nearby Club Kon-Tiki Resort (with its man-made white sandbar) and Cebu Mactan Island Member’s Club.
 
Our suite
This resort, the only condominium resort hotel on Mactan Island, also has a restaurant at the Zodiac Pavilion, function rooms, a free-form swimming pool and a small stretch of white sand beach.
 
The resort’s swimming pool
EGI Resort and Hotel: Pajac-Maribago Rd., Brgy. Looc, Maribago District, Lapu-Lapu City, Mactan Island, Cebu.  Tel: (032) 232-3111 to 15. Fax: (032) 232-3117.  E-mail: egiresort2003@yahoo.com. Website: www.egiresortandhotel.com. Manila sales office: 29/F, EGI Taft Tower, 2339 Taft Ave., Manila.  Tel: (632) 302-6418.  Fax: (632) 302-6420.

Club Panoly Resort (Boracay, Malay, Aklan)

Club Panoly Resort

During our 1990 visit to Boracay, my first such visit, we made an ocular visit of the new (opened November 1989), 4-hectare, Singaporean-owned (CTW Group) and operated Club Panoly Resort, the first triple AAA resort in Boracay. A year later, the resort was the site of the 1991 RPN-9 mini-series Boracay which starred Dina Bonnevie, Fe Delos Reyes (singer/comedienne), Joel Torre, Rollie Quizon and Noel Trinidad (the fictional resort owner).

Posing at the resort entrance

Six years later, Grace and I decided to plan our next stay on the island on this world-class resort, staying here for 5 days and 4 nights.  Together with our kids Jandy and Cheska, we departed for Kalibo on the 9 AM Philippine Airlines flight, arrived by 10 AM and, from Kalibo Airport, boarded an airconditioned  Boracay Star bus for Jetty Port in Brgy. Caticlan, arriving there by 11:30 AM.

Cafe Punta Bunga

At the port, we boarded the resort’s shuttle boat and arrived at Club Panoly in time for lunch at Cafe Punta Bunga, the resort’s coffee shop.   Sprawled throughout this luxurious resort are 8 native-style octagonal clusters with 5 cottages, all fully air conditioned, with hot and cold shower, cable TV, minibar, complimentary coffee and tea and 24-hour IDD telephone facilities, all standard features in all rooms. The custom-designed furniture were made with indigenous creativity and materials. 

Lounging by the swimming pool and poolside bar

Aside from Cafe Punta Punta, the resort also has a restaurant, a bar (El Capitan) and a beach bar.  There’s also has a swimming pool (with poolside bar), a plexi-paved tennis court, two jacuzzis, spa, sauna, multi-purpose conference room, billiards, children’s playground, souvenir shop, seaport and offers waterskiing, windsurfing, jetskiing, diving, paddle boating and speed boats.

Trying out the jacuzzi
Club Panoly Resort: Sitio Punta Bunga, Brgy. Yapak, Boracay Island, Malay, Aklan. Tel: (032) 288-3011. Fax: (036) 288-3134.  Metro Manila booking office: International Vacations Corp.,  G/F, ACT Tower, 135 Sen. Gil Puyat Ave., Salcedo Village, Makati City.  Tel: (632) 812-2233 local 107 or 403.  Fax: (632) 812-6455 and 812-6434.  E-mail: info@thepanoly.com.  Website: www.thepanoly.com.

Residence Inn Zoo (Tagaytay City, Cavite)

From the 41st Division P.A. USAFFE Shrine, Jandy and I continued on our way to Residence Inn.  As it was along the highway, it was easy to find.  There’s an entrance fee.  The inn,  which also has an excellent view of Taal Volcano and Lake, has airconditioned accommodations and a restaurant.

Check out “41st Division P.A. USAFFE Shrine

However, we were just there on a 1-day tour of its mini-zoo which is more like an interactive petting zoo as, at the entrance, fresh fruits and other food  are sold to visitors who want to feed the animals (except the tigers).  The zoo has a menagerie of 30 or so animals,  some caged while others were free-roaming.

Jandy beside a free-roaming cassowary
A caged tiger

The first animals we saw were the noisily chirping parrots and cockatoos, some caged while others were out, tied loosely to their perches.  Also near the entrance were pythons, fishes and a tiger cub.  There were also screaming monkeys, caged Malay civet cats and tigers, free-roaming peacocks, ponies, llamas,  a free-roaming cassowary, wild pigs and crocodiles.  The zoo could actually be toured in an hour.

A caged crocodile
A python in a glass case

Residence Inn: Km. 65, Brgy. Neogan, Tagaytay City, Cavite. Tel: (632) 899-9829 (Manila)

41st Division P.A. USAFFE Shrine (Tagaytay City, Cavite)

After my jobsite inspection at La Residencia de Laguna and lunch in Tagaytay City, Jandy and I went out of our way to visit the Residence Inn Zoo.  Along the way, we made a stopover at the 41st Division P.A. USAFFE (United States Armed Forces in the Far East) Shrine, beside the City Hall and Tagaytay Convention Center.

Check out “Residence Inn Zoo

41st Division P.A. USAFFE Shrine

Within the shrine are marble walls etched with the names of all 6,000 servicemen of the 41st Division, Philippine Army, under the command of Brig.-Gen. Vicente P. Lim.  Coming from Cavite, Batangas, Laguna, Tayabas (now Quezon) and Palawan, these men mobilized on Tagaytay Ridge on August 1941.  Here, they set up camp and trained for war, prior to joining the ensuing Battle of Bataan. A bas-relief sculpture also helps tell the heroic story of the defenders of Bataan and Corregidor.

The bas-relief sculpture

41st Division P.A. USAFFE Shrine: Km. 59, Emilio Aguinaldo Highway, Brgy. Kaybagal South, Tagaytay City, Cavite.